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Elevation: 5,887 ft
GPS: 39.28778, -120.20748
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 7, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

Containing many basalt formations holding many fine routes in the Tahoe area, in this region, located above highway 89, you will find an excellent view of the large ski areas on the eastern rocks of the canyon.

You will find a diverse range of climbing here, including some of the best sport climbing around. There are also a fairly large selection of traditional routes as well.

Being high up in the Sierra, this area will only be climbable when the snow resides on the approach in the spring, usually in April or May, and continuing through late December, depending on the year. On a dry year, you might find this area climbable year-round.

Many guide books cover the lower parts of the Truckee River Canyon in their Reno area chapters. But since Mountain Project is organized by states, all California crags from the outlet of Lake Tahoe to the California border are in the TRC area now.

See individual crag pages for specific directions.

Developed areas here include the Amphitheater, Bear Cave Cliff, Big Chief, the Columns, Deep Creek Crag, Light Deprivation Buttress, Little Chief, Sawtooth Ridge, Shirley Canyon Cliffs, the Truckee River Basalt Area, and Twin Crags.

Getting There Suggest change

Climbs around here are accessed either from highway 89 between Tahoe City and Truckee, or from interstate 80 near Truckee.

See the Big Chief Area page for driving directions from Truckee to the Big Chief parking area, and other nearby crags along forest road 6. These are closed seasonally.

Other Truckee River Canyon crags are reached using highway 89, as are the forest road 6 crags during winter and other snowy months, when the gate stays locked.

For the Truckee River Basalt Area: Head South down Highway 89 out of Truckee towards Lake Tahoe and Tahoe City. You will see the Basalt cliffs of the Truckee River Basalt Area on the left, and you can park in the campgrounds in front of the rocks, yet still on the west side of the Truckee river.

For The Ampitheater:Head South down highway 89 out of Truckee towards Lake Tahoe and Tahoe City. Park just before the turnoff to Alpine Meadows. You will be able to see the Ampitheater just before the bridge heading over The Truckee River.

138 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Truckee River Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 173
War Paint
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 189
War Path
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 69
Times Up
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Jitters
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 78
Route Stealers From Hell
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
Festus
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 151
Mohawk
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Climb Like a Madman
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
The A Bomb
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 68
Sweating Bullets
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Oh, My My!
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 120
Pow Wow
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Peace Dance
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 52
Raindance
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 13
All Guns Blazing
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
War Paint Big Chief Area > Center Wall
 173
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
War Path Big Chief Area > Center Wall
 189
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Times Up Big Chief Area > Honeycomb Wall
 69
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jitters Deep Creek Crags > Arena
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Route Stealers From Hell Big Chief Area > Mini Buttress
 78
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Festus Big Chief Area > S Wall
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mohawk Big Chief Area > Center Wall
 151
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Climb Like a Madman Deep Creek Crags > Arena
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The A Bomb Shirley Canyon… > Center Wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Sweating Bullets Big Chief Area > Honeycomb Wall
 68
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Oh, My My! Deep Creek Crags > Arena
 10
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pow Wow Big Chief Area > Center Wall
 120
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Peace Dance Big Chief Area > Center Wall
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Raindance Big Chief Area > Center Wall
 52
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
All Guns Blazing Big Chief Area > Center Cave
 13
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Truckee River Canyon »

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