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Truancy 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: the schmuck on Mar 24, 2014

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Description 

Truancy starts on a ledge with a tree. Climb onto a disintegrating ledge, and establish on a techy 11- slab/blunt arete for 3 bolts. Gain a large ledge, and climb a powerful pockety face for another 3 bolts. The PG-13 in my opinion is the first bolt on the face, which if you are not at least 6' tall, you cannot clip until you pull a pretty tough boulder move. If you come off here before clipping and don't stick the ledge under your feet, the fall would be very, very ugly as the last bolt is quite a ways below. Considering, the actual climbing is pretty fun.

Location 

This route starts on a ledge with a tree, and is between Top Fun (runout looking affair that also starts on the ledge) and High Pockets.

Protection 

6 bolts, 3 bolt anchor (one old welded shut, two SMC hangers, no chains, tat without rings).


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By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 24, 2014

This route and the one to the left need new anchors. The bolts look fine, but Truancy has one rusty shut and two SMC hangers with old tat through them without links/hardware. The route to the left has only a worn piece of static line through bolt hangers.