Trout Rock is a small crag just above Boulder Creek across from the Boulderado. It lies directly below Sleeping Beauty. The rock faces NNE, so it gets morning sun but is in the shade most of the day.
Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand recently put up four routes here; it's amazing that a rock with such easy access and quality climbing hasn't been developed before this.
The routes from L->R:
AB. Where's Vaino?, 10, 1p, 35', gear. Steep L-facing corner. B. Griffon, 10-, 1p, 35', 3 bolts & gear. A steep face and overhang. A&B share a 2 bolt anchor. C. Cutthroat, 10, 1p, 45', gear & 3 bolts. A fun slab. D. Greenback, 10, 1p, 45', 4 bolts. A sustained slab. C&D share a 2 bolt anchor. E. The Trout Farm, 8, 1p, gear.
Thanks to Bob and Greg for this great addition to Boulder Canyon climbing!
Park at the Boulderado/Animal World pullout on the left, 8.6 miles up the canyon, just past the guardrail. This is about a mile past Boulder Falls, and just after a sweeping right-hand bend in the road. It lies below Sleeping Beauty. Walk downstream about 50' and you'll see the rock directly across the creek. In low water, you can wade the creek or hop rocks below the left side of the crag. Walk 50' up the hill to the rock. Approach time: 5 minutes.
In high water, use the Sleeping Beauty tyrolean, located about 100' upstream, to cross the creek. However, it may be difficult to get to the base of the climbs at Trout Rock from here when the water is high. Another alternative is to go downstream several hundred yards to Vampire Rock tyrolean traverse and bushwhack back up to the rock.
Griffon goes up the left side of Trout Rock, just right of the left-facing corner "Where's Vaino?".Climb steep rock to an overhang at the third bolt. Surmount the overhang (crux), place a green Alien in a finger crack to the right, and continue to the 2-bolt anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in CO