This route is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the [Lower] Peanuts Wall, below Your Basic Lieback and Star Wars, among others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp lightning-bolt finger-crack. going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards. It is a good lead or fun TR. Spots are thin and cruxy, but the route is not hard at its grade. The route is generally chalked.
Standard rack with good nuts and small to medium TCUs at the crux.
This is a short, but fun and demanding lead. Four pieces of pro will get you through it, which include a small wire (3?), [a couple of] medium and a large cam (not sure exact size). I wasn't psyched about the direction of the cam placement at the crux, about 15/18 ft up, so I stuck two in (a 6&7 [Trango size])... The climb goes straight up the finger crack, then right into an open, diagonal band (where you need the large cam). (There's also a variation that follows a crack from the left into the crux). Decent feet on the right when you're pushing past the band. Once through that traverse there's plenty of space to rest, then a pair or cracks on top that are easier to negotiate. This route is a bit like a 10a boulder problem sitting on top of a highball V1... fun!
Fun linkup to Star Wars. #6 BD stopper, blue Alien, #2 Camalot, #3 Camalot for the traverse, and a #1 Camalot for the final paired cracks.
By Clint Locks From: Boulder Jun 8, 2006 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b PG13
Finally! Always wondered what this one was called. Next time I won't stick all the gear where my fingers need to go...and I'll bring a #4 cam for the diagonal band. All and all--good fun! And it DOES make for a good link-up with Star Wars, to be sure.
By Mike C. Robinson From: Rumney, NH Jun 21, 2007 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b PG13
Awesome link up to Star Wars or any other climb up there. Didn't know what it was, but I am glad I did it!
By Tombo From: Boulder Oct 16, 2011 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+20E3 5b
I thought this climbed way harder then it looked and its grade, maybe it's because I'm short, old and fat. There isn't another 10b in the canyon that has shut me down like this one. I thought is was really technical down low with strenuous gear placements, to bomber hands if all the gas wasn't spent on the first 10 feet. Anyway, I'm going to loose 10 lbs and try again.
Anyone know the rating if you climb in from the left as opposed to straight up?
By Sean Wolf From: Denver, CO Jun 18, 2012 rating: 5.106b20VII-19E2 5b
There is a bomber 0.75 placement back in the crack to use if you don't have the #4. The spot for the #4 seemed kinda hollow anyhow.
By Ben Burnett From: Colorado Aug 8, 2012 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b
Plenty of gear on this one and the swing fall is no problem. WARNING GEAR BETA: Green Alien, red C3, red #1 C4 in initial creck, yellow #2 C4 / green #0.75 C4 at horizontal jug, blue #3 C4 past the hand jam (or other possibilities on traverse), red or yellow C4 in top cracks, optional green C4 protects the second above the moves. There's a good boulder thread for TR without going all the way up to the Star Wars ledge/tree.