|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||T. Moon on Apr 23, 2009|
|Comments on Trotsky||Add Comment|
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By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
|Yes, this is stout for the grade, but it's all there. An excellent small nut at 10 feet protects the crux moves to the bottom of the hanging corner where you will find very good holds. From this stance, look underneath the right side of the hanging corner for a bomber mid-sized cam placement, then just muscle up into the corner and enjoy easy stemming and jamming all the way to the top.|
By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Rating: Definitely full value for the money at 5.7. The moves are all there, if a little thin, but the finicky gear increases the pump.
Gear: sound and adequate to protect against groundfall, but requires attention to detail. Take your time and downclimb for a rest if needed.