Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Precipice
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Balance Queen T 
Bartleby T 
Birch Ade T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chlitlin Corner T 
Connecticut Crack T 
Country Corner T 
Crack Of Senility T 
Dynamo Hum T 
Emigrant Crack T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape S 
From Russia With Love T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Madame Dubois Wild Ride T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Standard Route T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks T 
Wafer Step T 
Wet Lithuanian T 
Unsorted Routes:

Trotsky 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,280
Submitted By: T. Moon on Apr 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Troy getting started on Trotsky.

Description 

The crux is in the first 20 feet -- thin moves with small gear for pro. Reach a corner (with relief) and continue on easier ground to a belay on a ledge. Exciting and fun. 5.7 is an "island rating," otherwise known as sandbag. Some say this feels as hard as 5.9.

Location 

Follow the normal approach to the South Wall. Proceed to the right until you reach the old stone stairs. The route is to main wall right at the stairs.

Protection 

Small wires for the lower portion. Medium gear for the upper corner.


Comments on Trotsky Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Yes, this is stout for the grade, but it's all there. An excellent small nut at 10 feet protects the crux moves to the bottom of the hanging corner where you will find very good holds. From this stance, look underneath the right side of the hanging corner for a bomber mid-sized cam placement, then just muscle up into the corner and enjoy easy stemming and jamming all the way to the top.
By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Rating: Definitely full value for the money at 5.7. The moves are all there, if a little thin, but the finicky gear increases the pump.

Gear: sound and adequate to protect against groundfall, but requires attention to detail. Take your time and downclimb for a rest if needed.
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Nov 13, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

fun climbing. it gets runout on the lower face. skip the gear for an easier time.