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Orange Crush
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Tropicana 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ward Smith (P1), Steve Johnson (P2)
Page Views: 6,021
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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BETA PHOTO: 2nd Pitch from the anchors. How awesome is that?!...

Description 

Located beneath Predator's obvious overhanging prow, Tropicana climbs up interesting rock to a big belay ledge. The second pitch climbs up a hanging fin that looks a bit like a mini-Predator.

Pitch 1: Climb up steep rock to much easier climbing. The crux comes right at the end as the rock gets steep and weird. Belay on a two eyebolt anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2: Climb up a steep wall and head out right onto the prow to anchors at the lip.

Protection 

Bolts. A 60 meter rope is required to lower from the top anchors to the ground. If you have less than a 60, lower to the belay and have your belayer haul you in. Rap from the anchors on the ledge to the ground.


Photos of Tropicana Slideshow Add Photo
Kayte on the start of the first pitch. Photo Adam Holmes.
Kayte on the start of the first pitch. Photo Adam ...
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
The ledge on top of Tropicana. The rightmost climber is on the Tropicana anchors and the left most is on the anchors for the Predator belay.
The ledge on top of Tropicana. The rightmost climb...

Comments on Tropicana Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2014
By James Otey
From: NH
May 26, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I found both pitches of this route to be quite pumpy. The rests are definitely there, and not too difficult to find, though some will be slightly contrived. Both pitches are of relatively similar difficulty. Your technical stemming, drop knees and mantling prowess will all be put to good use. Tropicana is a must climb classic, though maybe not the best introduction to the grade.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 6, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is wonderful. I only did the first pitch and found there to be two cruxes. The first one after a few move off the ground around bolt three and the top one at the last two bolts. The top crux is harder though. This is a true classic and and gets all four stars from me.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 6, 2010

Wait till you do the second pitch! You will get some extra wow factor up there
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Can you link both pitches and second with a 70m? I know it wouldn't really add any value to the climb because of the belay ledge but I'm just curious if it is possible.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 25, 2010

Yes, if my memory serves. Have the belayer tie in to be safe.
By S. Neoh
Aug 25, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Interesting. We have a 70m rope. Hmmm.
Mark, how's the rope drag doing both pitches in one push? I assume one ought to skip clipping the 1st anchor in this case, or if one does, use a 4-foot sling instead of a draw?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 25, 2010

I don't remember getting any bad drag on it, but I would have used some slings. I like to do The Opportunist next to it on top of the first pitch of Orange Crush as one pitch. I use some slings on OC and the mid anchor. It goes to the same height as the full Tropicana. Incidentally, The Opportunist is a great warm up for the harder routes if you take advantage of the fixed draws and skip the very top crux. The results is a nice pumpy, big hold , big move 5.11 on top of a 5.9
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Jun 11, 2011

70M will reach back to the ground. I TR'd both pitches yesterday to clean the whole route at once (leader led it in 2 pitches technically. Would be impressive to lead both pitches at once.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Apr 16, 2012

I found the lower crux to be pumpy getting to that the jugs/big undercling rest, clip the fourth bolt then move up to the real rest ledge. The upper crux is a harder move or two, but not pumpy due to the rest right before. Love the route, and I've only done the first pitch!
By S. Neoh
Sep 22, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Finally did P2 today. Really nice. A little less hard than P1 to me (maybe .10d?) but way more spectacular and the climbing is more varied than P1.
Question: Why was P2 not taken up to the top of the cliff? Was it because with a 60m rope and the current set of top anchors a climber could lower from the top to the ground even if the belayer is on the ground?
By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Oct 9, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

doing this as one long pitch is recommended by me
By Ian Grant
From: Cambridge
Aug 19, 2014

Did the route in one long pitch the other day and fought with some pretty horrendous rope drag towards the end. It's fun to skip the belay, but I wouldn't recommend it. I found myself resting on the ledge for a while anyway, and fighting the drag was the crux for me. If you do choose to link them up, bring a lot of long draws.