Trophy Husbands 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | TR unknown FL T. Melin |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | TravisMelin on Apr 6, 2008 |
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Description Good holds separated by thin powerful moves. The route culminates with a thin slab top-out after a rest in a large hueco.
Location Now the furthest right route on the wall. Starts using the first bolt on Randall's One Trick Pony and trends left after the hueco to the joint anchor.
Protection 6 bolts, shares anchors with Randall's One Trick Pony
| Comments on Trophy Husbands |
|
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 28, 2008
| Nice addition to the wall. |
By Corey Morris
From: Ali Al Salem, Kuwait
May 12, 2009
rating: 5.11a
| Great route Travis. |
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
May 12, 2009
| Thanks Corey... I can only take credit for the bolting, someone else pointed out the 'line' to me. Nice send! |
By JimmyHann
Nov 29, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| This is an excellent route with a super fun committing move at the 2nd bolt. Very height dependent, if you shorter than 5'8" (like me) this may feel pretty stiff for a 5.10. I don't know of many 5.10s that require all points off dynos! Compared to some of the other climbs at grandads, such as Patient Pending (5.10d/11.a) and Pryopism (5.10c), to me, this route is more difficult. Another slopey crux at the top keeps you honest.
On-sight I would say this is an honest 10+/11.a. If you have a big reach it might feel easier... I wouldn't know... Either way, this is a super fun route that is unique compared to the others on the Addias wall. A grandads must do IMO!!
(A large hold in the hueco up top is coming lose, as with all routes at Granddads, tread lightly if possible) |
By Corey Morris
From: Ali Al Salem, Kuwait
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| I and others would agree with you Jimmy that this climb is 11a. Unfortunately the author of this route is like 6'2" and climbs 5.13 so everything under his ultimate potential is "easy" climbing which doesn't help us mere mortals...and it is still a great route and I thank you Travis for this... |
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