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This route is on the left side of Snake Buttress just to the right of Hodge Podge
. It follows incipient cracks up the slab to an anchor below the large roof overhead. The best start is to do an easy boulder problem past a bush to gain a comfortable ledge and belay here. To anchor the belayer find several cracks available on this ledge. The benefit of doing this is that you're much closer and in a direct line with the leader for the crux section between the two cracks. The route itself goes up the first, right-trending crack. Hand and finger-size gear protect this crack, and at its terminus you can place a nice medium stopper. Take a breather, then start up the slab for 15-20 feet to gain the next crack. There's no gear in between, but it eases up after the first couple of moves. The next crack protects well with a blue TCU and several small stoppers. Place gear well here because the next part is easy, but the flake you must gently lieback is not long for this world and a broken hold would be a long fall. Lieback and smear up the hollow flake above that trends back left. At the end of this flake is a 1/4" button head w/ a Leeper hanger. It appears to be in good condition, but could stand to be replaced. After clipping this bolt, climb easy slab up, then right to a 3 bolt anchor. This anchor could also use replacing. When I climbed this 10/13/07, I replaced the slings with a triple equalized set of rings on green 9mm cord. This route and others I spotted on the crag all had sling anchors, so it's not a bad idea to bring webbing to replace the south facing bleached out slings you'll find. The anchors were mostly single rap rings and for those I used I added a ring in addition to the slings I replaced.
DESCENT: If you're very careful, you can rap back to the start with a 70M cord. Tie knots in the ends! Otherwise, two ropes will comfortably take you back to the start or the ground another 30 feet below.
Start on a large ledge with bushes on left side of crag below obvious cracks belonging to Dr.Demento and Hodge Podge
Rappel 140 feet to ground.
TCUs to handsize. RPs to medium stoppers. A shock absorbing draw for the one bolt.
Anchors at top are three 1/4 inch bolts properly equalized and safe at the time of this writing. Please do not top rope or lower through the aluminum rap rings.
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Some good rock and some scary rock on the route. Never even clipped the 1/4-incher. Been a few years, but I do remember the crux is the start of the route - like a V2 boulder problem.