This route is on the left side of Snake Buttress just to the right of Hodge Podge. It follows incipient cracks up the slab to an anchor below the large roof overhead. The best start is to do an easy boulder problem past a bush to gain a comfortable ledge and belay here. To anchor the belayer find several cracks available on this ledge. The benefit of doing this is that you're much closer and in a direct line with the leader for the crux section between the two cracks. The route itself goes up the first, right-trending crack. Hand and finger-size gear protect this crack, and at its terminus you can place a nice medium stopper. Take a breather, then start up the slab for 15-20 feet to gain the next crack. There's no gear in between, but it eases up after the first couple of moves. The next crack protects well with a blue TCU and several small stoppers. Place gear well here because the next part is easy, but the flake you must gently lieback is not long for this world and a broken hold would be a long fall. Lieback and smear up the hollow flake above that trends back left. At the end of this flake is a 1/4" button head w/ a Leeper hanger. It appears to be in good condition, but could stand to be replaced. After clipping this bolt, climb easy slab up, then right to a 3 bolt anchor. This anchor could also use replacing. When I climbed this 10/13/07, I replaced the slings with a triple equalized set of rings on green 9mm cord. This route and others I spotted on the crag all had sling anchors, so it's not a bad idea to bring webbing to replace the south facing bleached out slings you'll find. The anchors were mostly single rap rings and for those I used I added a ring in addition to the slings I replaced.
DESCENT: If you're very careful, you can rap back to the start with a 70M cord. Tie knots in the ends! Otherwise, two ropes will comfortably take you back to the start or the ground another 30 feet below.
Start on a large ledge with bushes on left side of crag below obvious cracks belonging to Dr.Demento and Hodge Podge routes.
Rappel 140 feet to ground.
TCUs to handsize. RPs to medium stoppers. A shock absorbing draw for the one bolt.
Anchors at top are three 1/4 inch bolts properly equalized and safe at the time of this writing. Please do not top rope or lower through the aluminum rap rings.
Feb 23, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Some good rock and some scary rock on the route. Never even clipped the 1/4-incher. Been a few years, but I do remember the crux is the start of the route - like a V2 boulder problem.