Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Wall of the Trundling Trolls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered 
Balin Goes to Hollywood 
Best of Both Worlds 
Business as Usual 
Chicken Little 
Dead Precedents 
Digital Alarm 
Do You Want to Live Forever? 
Fear of Lurking 
Few Species 
Flexible Flyer 
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy 
Hall of the Mountain King 
Hostile Takeover 
Hung Like a Troll 
Hyper Sloth 
If I Had a Hammer 
Internet Troll 
Jerk Whisperer, The 
Oppositional Defiance Disorder 
Player Hater's Club 
Run Like Hell 
Sky is Falling, The 
Slip Service 
Slot, The 
Smoke and Mirrors 
Spew Feces 
Stalker, The 
Stranger in a Strange Land 
Sudden Death 
Take Apart the Robots 
Talk of the Nation 
Tao of Choy, The 
That's Entertainment 
You're Fired! 


YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 185'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Mike Strassman
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


The nightmarish loose block that used to block safe entry to this crack system has been trundled, leaving a high-quality first pitch. Some additional cleaning also helped! The first pitch is well worth climbing, while the second is quite disappointing in that a section of nasty bird poop must be traversed past under the roof. Perhaps the best, and most direct way to finish this route would be to turn the upper roof on Valhalla. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)

Pitch 1 Gain the right-leaning crack system that starts out with some closely spaced left-facing corners. Moderate climbing leads to a rest below a steep section of rock. Continuously difficult moves lead to a small stance out right on a chickenhead with a bolted anchor station. Belay here instead of the lower ledge with the frightening loose block (and poorly directionalized anchor placements.) (An easy, well-protected traverse straight left from approximately 10 feet below the chickenhead stance, followed by a few moves up, gains the bolted belay/rappel station for Business As Usual. This allows a rappel point that can reach a lower rappel station so that only one rope is required to descend.) 5.10, pro to 3, 125 feet.

Pitch 2 Continue up the crack to the large roof. Traverse left approximately 30 feet until the roof can be turned. A short section of steep, but easy face leads to the top. (Not a recommended pitch.) 5.9, pro to 3, 60 feet.


Pro to 3.5", anchors for pitch 1 only.


See Squeezing the Lemmon.

Comments on Trollkind Add Comment
Show which comments
By Clay Mansfield
Apr 21, 2013

First pitch goes on and on, and was more in my face than I thought it would be. Good value, old school 5.10. Crux seemed pretty un-Troll Wall-like. Pretty cool.

The traverse from the anchor and rapping off Business as Usual is good info. We rapped from the Trollkind anchor, and required some shenanigans getting to an intermediate anchor.