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The nightmarish loose block that used to block safe entry to this crack system has been trundled, leaving a high-quality first pitch. Some additional cleaning also helped! The first pitch is well worth climbing, while the second is quite disappointing in that a section of nasty bird poop must be traversed past under the roof. Perhaps the best, and most direct way to finish this route would be to turn the upper roof on Valhalla. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 2 out of 3 stars.)
Pitch 1 – Gain the right-leaning crack system that starts out with some closely spaced left-facing corners. Moderate climbing leads to a rest below a steep section of rock. Continuously difficult moves lead to a small stance out right on a chickenhead with a bolted anchor station. Belay here instead of the lower ledge with the frightening loose block (and poorly directionalized anchor placements.) (An easy, well-protected traverse straight left from approximately 10 feet below the chickenhead stance, followed by a few moves up, gains the bolted belay/rappel station for Business As Usual. This allows a rappel point that can reach a lower rappel station so that only one rope is required to descend.) 5.10, pro to 3½”, 125 feet.
Pitch 2 – Continue up the crack to the large roof. Traverse left approximately 30 feet until the roof can be turned. A short section of steep, but easy face leads to the top. (Not a recommended pitch.) 5.9, pro to 3½”, 60 feet.
Pro to 3.5", anchors for pitch 1 only.
See Squeezing the Lemmon.
|By Clay Mansfield|
Apr 21, 2013
First pitch goes on and on, and was more in my face than I thought it would be. Good value, old school 5.10. Crux seemed pretty un-Troll Wall-like. Pretty cool.
The traverse from the anchor and rapping off Business as Usual is good info. We rapped from the Trollkind anchor, and required some shenanigans getting to an intermediate anchor.