Trojans 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Doug Reed, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Jeremy Steck on Jul 16, 2009 |
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Sending Trojans on a not-so-cool June day- so good...
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Description Amazing climb. A must do! Start by climbing the easy section of rock to reach a stance on a large flake below the overhanging crack. Make a few reachy/stemming moves to gain the wider portion of crack above. Place some good gear here and find some tight hand jams to reach a good horizontal (crux). From here, there's still a move or two to reach the shuts.
Location This is the overhanging crack just to the right of the classic Toxic Hueco.
Protection Cams and Stoppers under 1.5", mostly small stuff. A single #2 camalot may be useful. Shuts.
Gettin' up in the crack after the slightly sketchy...
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Hiiiiiiiya!
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trojans
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By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.11d
| Fixed nut at the base of the crack looks pretty ragged. I would recommend backing it up with a 0.3 (blue) c4. Gun it a few moves to a decent stem rest (far right) and place a purple c3. Orange master cam or tcu at top of corner before crux. 0.5 c4 up top. Amazing line! |
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