Troglodytes Day Out
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|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 790 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Patrick Moe. March 15th 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Mar 17, 2009|
The entrance to the Trog house. Photo Pat Moe
A climb of unique character to say the least,if you want adventure this is it!.Difficult to grade on the FA ,the leader having to get through the slot moves with a heavy drill strapped to his back.Scramble up the slot until it steepens.
P1)Stem and chimney passing a bolt at about 80' that was used to protect the second on one of the steep sections.Continue to a belay bolt plus small cam back up. 200'5.7.
P2)An ascending traverse is made up the left wall of the slot . when the second bolt is reached with a fixed biner lower off back down into the bottom of the slot about 50' .Continue with less difficulty up the slot to natural block belay. The second had to climb to the first bolt so the leader could reach the belay ledge. 240'5.8.
P3)One is now out thankfully out of the slot.Ascend the slab on the left (south) side, trending slightly right heading for a mini arch on the skyline. Climb passed three bolts at the third tension off into the open groove to the right and across to double achors.200'5.8.
P4).Follow the corner that has some natural pro ,step right to a pro bolt and after a couple of thin moves climb past mini arch to double anchors on the crest of the ridge.150'5.9-. About 60'a long the ridge to the right is a cairn with register.
Descent. Head down (east) the ridge of the route Rilke's Climb to first double ancors for a single 100' low angle rap to double anchors .from here two more 60m raps to easy scramble down groove to the right (south).
Located about 200' north of the canyon that leads up to Death By Chocolate . and just right of a climb up the cracked rounded ridge named Rilke's Climb.Here one will see the very narrow slot canyon. See topo photo.
A few cams from 1/4" to 2" . Small to medium stoppers. slings, two 60m ropes.
Deeper . photo Pat Moe
Looking down to the entrance
Starting the left wall rising traverse Pitch 2 pho...
About to lower back into the slot.P2 A direct esca...
Back in the slot finishing off the last 40'.Photo ...
Looking down the second pitch Patrick on the left ...
Patrick higher on the left wall traverse
Emerging from the deep
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Final section of Pitch 4. Photo Pat Moe
looking down P4
Pat topping out
BETA PHOTO: A)Rilke's Climb 5.8.B)Easter Prohibition 5.9R C)Tr...