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Triumverate Wall
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Triumverate 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,236
Submitted By: NEGuiding on Apr 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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The airy and easy 2nd/3rd pitch of Triumvirate.

Description 

This route has more mistakes, bailing and lost climbers than any other route at the NJ Gap. Pay attention and follow the route line. Don't be deceived by its rating. Many variations have been done around the solid line.

Pitch 1: Climb weaknesses up the center of the face. After a minor chimney, step right to a belay.
Pitch 2: Climb up almost to the large chimney (Cryptic Chimney) where an optional belay provides an opportunity for photos. THen traverse straight out left with a small ceiling below. At the end of the upper ceiling, climb up to a cedar tree, where there are usually slings for a double-rope rappel.


Location 

Very easy to see, mid-wall and look for the small chimney.


Protection 

Pro is VERY good on this route, nice small chimney about 60' up, protect with a #8-#10 nut before climbing.



Photos of Triumverate Slideshow Add Photo
Lauren pulling the final moves to the end of Triumvirate.
Lauren pulling the final moves to the end of Trium...
Me on the 2nd pitch of Triumvirate.
Me on the 2nd pitch of Triumvirate.
Rob H. starting up Pitch 1 - this section is PG gear until you get to the first open book chimney up to his left, but it's all there.
BETA PHOTO: Rob H. starting up Pitch 1 - this section is PG ge...
Ryan leading the top of Triumvirate in the rain.  Belayed in the corner, but an easier belay is closer to the start of the traverse.
Ryan leading the top of Triumvirate in the rain. ...
Joey starting the lead
Joey starting the lead
Airy traverse
Airy traverse
Comments on Triumverate Add Comment
Show which comments
By tscupp
From: Cincinnati, OH
Apr 10, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Very fun route. I remember using a whole bunch of nuts in the chimney. The vegetation detracts from the aesthetics of the route, but I think it lessens in the fall if you want good pictures. Also, the 2nd pitch is pretty easy but airy.

By Larry S
Jun 29, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Easy and lots of fun. Optional 2nd belay makes for some good photos and keeps things close enough that you can still hear your second over the sound of the highway below. I only placed tricams (pink-purple) and cams up to BD #3, but you could protect it reasonably well with up to a #2. Ends at bolts and rings next to a tree about 20 feet from the very top. You NEED 2 ropes to get back down.

By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Oct 10, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

FUN route and even better when climbed on the direct veriation pulling a juggy roof with heal hook! (Standard var.)Suggest making the first belay in the corner just before the airy left traverse, which makes for a longer first pitch (extend all slings to prevent any rope drag).

By marcin
Oct 1, 2012

Very good route to get familiar with the wall and take a look at the area from the top. We climbed it as a two pitch climb. The 2nd pitch is all about the roof, than you can rappel form the bolts that are by the tree and are easy to locate. On the 1st pitch we used mainly nuts, on the 2nd pitch mainly cams. Two ropes to rappel.

1st pitch
1st pitch


closer view at the roof
closer view at the roof


Triumverate
Triumverate

By Southey
May 16, 2013

My partner led this one, it was his second trad lead ever, and he flew up no problem. I don't know how this route is a 5.4, or how it has good ratings. It was way to easy for most of the climb, and boring. We had a 70m, so just ran it all the way to the top in one shot (brought a second rope up to use for the rappel, you CANNOT get down with one 70m rope).

By Ian Colquhoun
From: New Jersey
Aug 18, 2014

Fun route, although very overgrown and full of chiggers (itched for solid 2 weeks afterward and needed to clean all my gear.)
The climbing is easy and uninspiring, although the exposure on P2 more than makes up for it.