I was taking a look at my rack the other day and realized that a few of my slings that I usually keep over my shoulder had somehow became trad draws (tripled runners). This made me wonder:
For a long (multi-pitch) trad climb how many "Trad Draws" are you carrying? How many do you rack over your shoulder? How many of each size (shoulder length, double shoulder length, etc)? Do these numbers change on an alpine climb?
For me, I carry six tripled runners on my harness, two double-shoulder lengths over my shoulder as well as 2-3 single shoulder lengths over my shoulder. Each on of these has a singel wire gate clipped onto it.
I'm looking forward to the responses on this thread. I was just wondering the same thing. I converted most of my over the shoulder slings to "alpine draws" that can extend back out easily. I figured it would be easier handling. I have some with 2 biners for nuts though.
On trad routes I carry all alpine draws with two biners on each. I carry 12 for a climb with long pitches and 10 for a place with short pitches (like the Gunks). I find over the shoulder slings too cumbersome to get off when needed.
I'm looking forward to the response of this thread as well. Might I add, if it's an alpine route, how many cams, stoppers, and carabiners do you carry? Do folks bring tri cams on alpine routes too?
I usually put 3 spare carabiners on my left first gear loop, 4 stoppers on one biner on the 2nd left gear loop, then on my right side I usually mix it up, Sometimes if it's an alpine route, I have 4-6 more stoppers on the first gear loop on my right side, and then 3 or 4 more carabiners on the 2nd loop on this side. I usually have 3 triple runners, and then 4 more over the shoulder with no biners and 2 more with biners if its an Alpine route under 5 pitches, Anything over 5 pitches in the Alpine and I double everything I have.
My standard is 6 alpine draws (with strings). I then put two double length slings over the shoulder with one biner each. Sometimes I also put two other single slings over the shoulder, but this is only because I got them for free and they can be nice to have along. I wouldn't purchase single slings without making them into alpine draws, however.
The number of draws is of course adjusted from there depending on the climb.
I don't carry slings over my shoulder very often. On occasion I will do it on Alpine routes with rabbit runners or double lengths.
I carry all of my runners as tripled alpine draws on my harness. Anywhere from 6-14 depending on the route. I also usually have 2 double length slings bundled up on 1 biner each on my harness as well.
As far as gear goes it totally depends on the route. When alpine climbing I will usually carry mid sized cams (BD .4 - 2 or 3), nuts (5-11) and a few pins (These are my favorites: angles #1 & 2, bugaboo #3 & 5, possibly a lost arrow)
I also like to carry 2 or 3 spare wire gates for various uses such as: clipping to nuts/pins when building an anchor, hanging packs on, gloves etc.
my formula for slings is completely dependant on the route, I used to do over the shoulder but anymore I do alpine draws for single length and double length twisted on a racking biner. easier routes I'll carry 6 single and 2 double, maybe 4 if beta indicates wondering and rope drag. for harder routes at the upper end of my grade I'll go with up to 12 singles. mind you there are a lot of great answers on the thread already but just because my way works for me or someone elses works for them doesn't mean it'll work for you. get out try it a couple different ways and go with what works best for you. as far as rack, yes I carry tricams and hex's for alpine climbs. for a typlical easier route I'll carry cams .5-1 or 2, a couple tri's nuts and hexs 9 and 10 possible 11 depending on how frisky I'm feeling. for winter where I'll have an ice tool to pound pins I'll swap some stuff for pins, and for harder climbs I'll take more cams adding some micros and possible a 3. big thing with taking tri's is knowing how to use them and your second knowing the tricks to cleaning them, if either part of that is missing you'll shoot yourself in the foot taking them....
You should probably reconsider the strings, assuming you mean these..
Thanks for the heads up. I am aware of the concerns and discussions behind the use of strings. I agree that it can be an issue, but I find the benefits outweigh the risks, especially because I can spot the problem pretty easily. My primary climbing partner and I have had pretty in depth discussions regarding this.
It is good to be aware of the issue, but it doesn't warrant changing my system.
I don't start with any over my shoulder, they are all tripled. The only time they end up over the shoulder is when cleaning one that is extended...then I do it because it is easier and faster and only takes one hand. Number carried while leading depends on the specific pitch.
Typically I'll put about 6 of them along with 4-5 regular draws and a draw that is small locking biners on each end on the rack and then make decisions about what to carry from the topo or looking up the next pitch.
First off, I don't really climb "Alpine", but I do enjoy multi-pitch routes at places like Lumpy Ridge, Eldo etc. I usually carry 6-8 alpine draws with 2 biners, and 4-8 open 12" runners with 1 biner to extend my cams. All biners are Trango Superfly wires with BD Dynex runners.
I don't rack any on my shoulder unless I am cleaning a pitch. I do carry a rabbit runner and cordalette balled up on my harness for use in anchors if I am climbing with my wife (she doesn't lead).
The "why" is personal preference. The 24" are good for wandering routes, but they don't have to be extended if climbing straight up. The 12" are really handy for extending my Camalots, without having to use a full 24", I rack cams one biner each, so I only need one on the runners. I will also mix in some sporto draws if I feel I'll need more.
A great trick I learned from a Steve House gear video was to put clip the single carabiner on your double length runner into itself and then putting it around your shoulder. This allows you to get to it under other gear, and it requires only one hand. Talks about it at 8:00