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Triple S 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 10,423
Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Jan 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (107)
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My favorite move.

Description 

Shipley's Shivering Shimmy is the original name. Perhaps the name was a tad to long to stick. Triple S is one of the best routes at Seneca. Stem, stem, and stem some more until your left leg is completely exhausted; hopefully you'll have reached a rest by then.

Oh yeah; it's sandbagged, even for Seneca.


Location 

Triple S is the large corner where the Wall of a Thousand Pitons connects with the west face. One can rap from the top or continue up several other routes.


Protection 

More Cowbell!!! Passive gear (fist size or so in hexes) seems to be the preferred gear for this route. Seriously.



Photos of Triple S Slideshow Add Photo
Triple S.  Great rest spot!!
Triple S. Great rest spot!!
Stem it out or get shut down.
BETA PHOTO: Stem it out or get shut down.
Gene on Triple S!
BETA PHOTO: Gene on Triple S!
Midway through Triple S.  Photo on rappel.
Midway through Triple S. Photo on rappel.
triple s
triple s
This climb eats up protection. It can be strange to place for someone used to granite...
BETA PHOTO: This climb eats up protection. It can be strange t...
Shane leading S.S.S.
Shane leading S.S.S.
Matt on Triple S
Matt on Triple S
Nick leading Triple S with a nice stem
Nick leading Triple S with a nice stem
Panorama of the route
BETA PHOTO: Panorama of the route
On the Triple S corner.  The Marshall's Madness cracks are in view on the left.
On the Triple S corner. The Marshall's Madness cr...
Me leading up this classic line.
Me leading up this classic line.
Midway through Triple S. <br />
Midway through Triple S.
Tanya on Triple S
BETA PHOTO: Tanya on Triple S
Triple S
Triple S
Comments on Triple S Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 12, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's all about stemming. Seems very reasonable within the grade if you stem it. Also, I like the climbing, but it's not a 4-star at Seneca -- too short.

By Rick M
From: Annapolis, Maryland
Jul 19, 2007

it's worthy of 4 stars and a tough lead for the grade

By Charlie Perry
Dec 26, 2007

First real big fall I ever took. Probably in early eighties fell about sixty feet.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

60 feet huh? Must have not placed from the crux to the anchors then fell, wow.

By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Jul 21, 2008

No question, this is a Seneca classic.

By Joe Dietrick
Feb 6, 2009

Super route. Crack and face climb that will get your blood going.

By dinglestyle
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Easy 5.9 rating when compared to other climbs in the area like Tomato, The Burn and Alcoa. In my experience as a climber whenever I see a plus symbol it means sandbag rating Especially any east coast route that was established pre 5.10 era. This is classic Seneca at itís best still, a test piece in the mind of many weekend warriors.

By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
Jun 1, 2009

This is the most sustained pitch of 5.8 climbing I have ever done. It's like the forces of Nature collaborated to create this especially for climbers. Really amazing.

By oldbull
From: Laguna Beach, CA
Jul 14, 2009

Ahh...fond memories of this climb. Absolutely stellar!!! Not friendly for those with bad technique, but certainly a gift that keeps on giving. Your calves will be scorching by the time you hit the top. Lots of gear. After climbing another 10+ years, it does strike me that sandbag may be a good description of this climb. I can't think of too many 8's that are more consistent or harder.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Oct 19, 2010

I had no idea quartzite could get this polished.

By Caleb Efta
From: Golden, CO
Oct 28, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good climb. New to trad, so it was a hard climb for me. It sucks in the gear though. I used 7 or 8 nuts and only 2 cams.

Consistent too, no real break in the climbing.

By Terri Payne Brink
Apr 15, 2011

It's been a while... The Gendarme was still standing when I did this route! I have now climbed all over the country, Josh, Yosemite, Red Rocks, the list goes on. But Triple S is still THE route, best classic route I have ever climbed, don't miss it! Back when I climbed it it was a 5.7. Dang that was a hard 7!

By shirley surely
May 13, 2012

So much stemming that my feet were shaking! Chimney and stemming and pushing! yeah!

By climbinbob
Sep 6, 2012

I led this, again, on my 56th birthday. It seems to get harder every year, as the rock is just getting more and more polished. You can place gear everywhere, though; and, what a great belay stance at the top!!

By Dan Mathews
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Love this climb. Stemming and even some chimney moves for rests are the key. Solid protection is everywhere, so don't let it scare you off. Some thinly protected Seneca 5.7s are more intimidating than this. It doesn't get much better.

By BrianWS
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Nothing on this climb is harder than 5.8... but not much on it is any easier than 5.8, either. Very sustained.

By Emil Briggs
Nov 12, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I loved the route and while it wasn't a gimme I didn't think it was particularly sandbagged. As long as you have decent stem technique that is. If you don't it's going to feel really hard.