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Triple Overhangs (aka Sun Gypsy) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Steve Devlin and Craig Somerville, April 1972
Page Views: 1,603
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Jan 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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At the third corner.

Description 

Sun Gypsy gets two stars for the interesting and varied moves through each of the three overhangs. The best part of the climb is the top, while the bottom is marked by a number of large ledges between short faces. Climb the left side of the block to a large ledge beneath the first overhang. A medium-sized cam protects the moves up to the second large ledge beneath overhang number two. Work your feet up the left wall and use a couple of good holds on the right side to pull over. Similar climbing leads through the third overhang. Finish up a corner, exit right, and rappel off trees to descend. This is probably not the best candidate for a beginning leader because of the potential to hit a ledge beneath each of the overhangs.

Location 

Climbs the corner above and to the left of the old tree trunk through the namesake overhangs.

Protection 

Light rack with small to medium gear.


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By losbill
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R

The second overhang is where if you blow the move, which is generously characterized as awkward, you will impact the ledge with definite potential for injury.
By Pal Pocsi
From: Budapest, Hungary
Nov 12, 2009

I agree about the second overhang being dangerous. The move is quite difficult (way harder than 5.6) and there doesn't seem to be any way to protect against hitting that ledge if you blow the move. The good thing is you don't have to immediately commit to the move. You can work your way up and try a few things and then down climb to the ledge if you need. Also, the ledge is pretty big and it's not that far away. My heart was racing when I cleared that section. A good route but that one section is mighty tough for the grade in my opinion.
By AndyGriffin
May 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

A bit of a sandbag at 5.6 and it's awkward crux is the second overhang, where a fall would probably mean hitting the ledge. Definitely a worthwhile route, however, probably the best route at Green Corner.