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Triple Fisting 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: TR- Mark Sprague and Chris Smith Lead-Lee Hansche
Page Views: 1,868
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 19, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Here is a map of the cracked corner at the left en...

Description 

This route has great jamming and laybacking leading up to an interesting squeeze chimney. Mark Sprague cleaned it a bit and put a 2 bolt anchor at the top of the chimney. I went out and led it knocking down some big loose blocks in the chimney in the process.

Start by laying back a big flake at the base of the crack. Make a strong move up to a good hold and a bit of a stance. From here you start jamming about 10 feet of crack from wide hands to fist size. Mantel out of the crack and head left in to the squeeze chimney. 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Video link:

Location 

Left end of Triple Corners, see the route map.

Protection 

Regular rack, maybe a #4 cam if you want but not really needed.


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 19, 2009

Nice Job, Lee. I'll let Ward know, but I think the new guidebook may have already gone to the printers
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 19, 2009

great fun thanks for the anchor
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

this route was WICKED fun! i would love to lead it next time :) but it was deff a blast even on tr :) that squeez chimney at the top was deff a great end to a great route!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 19, 2009

just posted the video link... listen for some big rock fall in the chimney :)
By Kevin Macartney
From: Bozeman, MT
May 21, 2009

I liked the laughing cause of the block falling, Nice job on the send!

By the way, do you know where Losing Your Life and Living Through It (12c) is? Its in the new rock and ice, the picture looks cool but I can't place what cliff its at...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 21, 2009

yeah the rock fall was the best part of the video for sure, just when you think the action is over you get more fun...

and no i have no idea what that route is...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 21, 2009

Losing .... is Brady Libby's new trad route up at the Prudential, between the Premium and Stone temple