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Triple Couloirs 

WI3 M3 Steep Snow R

   
Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, 20 pitches, 2500', Grade IV
Consensus: WI3 M3 [details]
FA: 
Season: Winter-Spring
Page Views: 6,030
Submitted By: Colin Bartholomew on Mar 7, 2011  with updates from Nick Sweeney

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Some bad weather

Description 

This is a uber classic in the Enchantments. From Colchuck lake, Head towards the lowest protrusion of rock approximately in the middle of the peak. Bear slightly left, where you will see two possible starts. Take the left or right start of the first couloir. Ascend this until you reach the runnels. These are the steep snow and ice pitches separating the first and second couloirs. These take ice screws depending on conditions or pitons and some rock gear. From the top of the runnels continue up the second couloir. Exit the second coulior via a mixed pitch or steep snow pitch depending on conditions. Continue up the less steep third couloir to the summit. From the summit ridge go right to the true summit. Descend down and right to a notch. From here, take a direct line towards Asgard Pass.

Location 

Enchantments. Up from Colchuck Lake.

Protection 

This climb really requires a great deal of soloing or run-out climbing. Therefore it is not recommended for beginners. Comfort on steep snow is a great asset on this climb. Also climbing WI3 very comfortably is a plus.
A medium rack including small nuts, 4-5 pins, and cams from .5-2 and 4-5 ice screws (but you probably won't use that many). A couple pickets also are helpful.


Photos of Triple Couloirs Slideshow Add Photo
Standing on the lake looking back
Standing on the lake looking back
Dragontail Peak from the far end of Colchuck Lake....
BETA PHOTO: Dragontail Peak from the far end of Colchuck Lake....
Goran, seconding thin ice in The Runnels
Goran, seconding thin ice in The Runnels
Peter Moore in the first couloir. Photo Colin Bart...
Peter Moore in the first couloir. Photo Colin Bart...
The approach and a clear view of the couloir
The approach and a clear view of the couloir
Dragontail stair-master on the top out of Triple C...
Dragontail stair-master on the top out of Triple C...

Comments on Triple Couloirs Add Comment
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By Shaun Johnson
May 14, 2014

This thing is a little taste of Chamonix in the Stuart Range. SO FUN!!
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 30, 2015
rating: WI3 M3 Steep Snow R

Amazing climb. Get on it when the conditions are good and you will have the time of your life!
Rack recommendation for good conditions with lots of snow+ice(what we had):

3 pickets
2-3 knifeblades
2-3 10cm screws
1-2 13cm screws
Small and medium nuts
Cams .3-2

Have fun!
By Jarrod LaFountain
May 18, 2015
rating: WI3-4 M3 Steep Snow R

Late season run on 5/16. Snow couloirs are solid with memorable climbing in the runnels and between C2 and C3. The views at the top of C3 are wild!

Placed 2 or three pickets in questionable runout or bad snow spots and as anchors, put a few small cams here and there in runnels and one area took a screw. Simul-climbed the rest (only need ~40m rope).

Enjoy this classic!
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