|Green Adjective Gully
The route goes up the right facing flake to under the big roof, and then traverses right via a wild undercling to the anchors. Going straight up is 13a Center Trinity, with a few bolts.
In the Green Adjective Gully after passing Looney Tunes and before Wheels
Small wires, 1.5 sets of cams from purple TCU to #2 Camalot.
James protecting the starting moves
Aug 13, 2008
This is far more accessable than I thought it would be. The start has 10 feet of easy climbing with an easy traverse to your first gear, helping you get off the ground and in a very safe fall zone. Then there is pretty much gear every body length or less and most of it is from good stances. I can't believe I let so much time go before trying it. Far easier mentally for me than looney tunes is.
Once you get the mindset and learn the body tension its really straightforward. very classic.
From: Cottonwood Heights
Sep 9, 2008
Anybody ever had problems with bats on this route? It seems like there's a whole passel of them up in Trinity Left, and they're quite loud.
Guess 12a is hard enough that I don't want to fight off bats while I'm fighting for gear.
From: SL UT
Jun 23, 2009
A LCC handbag at the grade of 12a. Easier than Mother of Pearl.
|By John Steiger|
May 27, 2012
I made the mistake in thinking this was going to be soft. Maybe it is if you grab the chains or weight them before finishing the climbing. Iíll go solid 12a, maybe even a b, if you persevere and make the desperate face move past the chains to the stance. No bats during our visit. By the way, the first free ascent of the pitch as described above was Steve Hong, Karen Budding, and Steve Carruthers, 1985 (FA w/aid Carruthers and Gary Olsen, 1985). Thereís also a second pitch, reportedly 11c (FA: Carruthers, 1989) (didnít try it).
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
May 31, 2012
I found the entry moves into the corner to be the hardest and headiest as you only have once piece of gear protecting you at that point. 2 good rests can be found inbetween hard sections, though placing the gear was very strenuous as the crack flares quite a bit most of the way up the initial corner. 2 fixed nuts are found on route, though both are old and rusted they held my falls. I enjoyed the karate chop hand jam move under the roof and macarena dance moves underneath to the chains. Supremo!
|By George Jamison|
Sep 30, 2013
The fixed stopper just before the crux is gone. The cable broke and the leader stopped 4' off the ground. Couldn't get the old nut out to replace it, so place your own gear.
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 30, 2013
Jeebus, for realz? There's no fixed gear left on the route now... I'm glad I'm not the one who blew that piece out, it's a long way down to the gear before the lieback. Did your buddy soil his breeches?
What gear goes in that mess of loose-looking flakes or where the nut used to be? I heard a #3 camalot does the trick and there's some bomber blue TCU/yellow C3 in the horizontal too but that leaves you with a good 20' between pieces.
|By Landon McBrayer|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 17, 2014
Boissal, I'm not positive, but I think George may be referring to the lower fixed nut (where Trinity Left splits off). That nut is no longer there, but there is still a fixed nut up high just above the 'rest' flake. Also, you can get a bomber .75 Camalot at the bottom of the rest flake and a nice blue TCU in the horizontal above the flakes to protect the karate chop lunge.