| Trinity Arêtes |
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BETA PHOTO: The top of the Aretes from the campsites across th...
Description The Trinity Aretes are a steep, high quality limestone sport climbing area located above the Trinity River. The rock is of excellent quality with routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14a. The cliffs are generally north facing and quite cold during the winter. Summer and Fall are the best times to climb. While some routes are only 35 feet, most are 100 feet or longer, and up to 250, so a 70 meter rope is highly recommended. Some locals use 100 meter ropes for ease of lowering on the longer lines. After following rumors of a big limestone crag, Paul Humphrey finally drove the right dirt road and found one of the highest quality limestone crags on the west coast. Since 1996 route development has been spearheaded by Eric Chemello and Humphrey and there are now over 50 routes.
Some routes do require gear so check your line before launching. A helmet is highly recommended as there is some loose rock above and around the climbs.
Getting There The "Aretes" are great for their easy access. From the town of Burnt Ranch on Highway 299, Take Underwood Mountain road uphill (south) for 3.5 miles. Turn right onto forest service road 5N40. Follow this road for about 2 miles and the cliffs will be on your left. Dispersed camping is found across the road and more secluded spots are nearby. Please travel well away from the camp to relieve yourself. The Aretes are currently not "trashed" please pack out all butts, bottle caps and tape. Also, please pay attention to the local fire restrictions, one careless incident could blow it for everyone.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trinity Arêtes:
Featured Route For Trinity Arêtes
Visions Of Impalement 5.11d R CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Visions Wall
When approaching the Visions Wall, the most dramatic arete of this cliff juts out overhead, extending above the tree tops. The route is primarily a sport climb but has some crucial gear between the 4th and 5th bolts.Start the route by crimping past 4 bolts to a good rest (5.10). The first part of the route is just steep enough to be interesting but the overhanging fun begins after placing a #2 and 3 camalot in the right leaning, juggy crack. Take your time to place good gear as a fall from... [more] Browse More Classics in CA
| Comments on Trinity Arêtes |
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By Lurker
Apr 29, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | Aretes are good to go. A tiny bit of seepage, but mostly everything is dry. |
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 24, 2007
| I've heard of this area, and I'd love to check it out in the Fall.
What is the driving time from the Crescent City area? I'm coming from Portland, and I'm having a hard time figuring out if it's better to go through the Redwoods area on the coast and cut over, or to just come straight down I-5 and then go West at Redding. What would you recommend? |
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jul 24, 2007
| Peter-
Driving time to the Aretes is about 2.5-3 hrs from Crescent City or about 2 from Redding. I think cutting across to Crescent City is probably a little faster than coming from Redding. The other way is to drop down from Yreka to Callahan and down Rte. 3 to Weaverville and intersect Hwy. 299 there. Also, if you come down the coast, you can pick up the guide book for the Aretes in Arcata. |
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 8, 2007
| The roads are standard Forest Service gravel. 2wd passenger cars should be fine but I wouldn't take a lowered street racer up there. |
By JMo
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 10, 2010
| so it says trinity aretes is cold in winter. are we talking cold unclimable or cold dress warm and there should be almost no one else there? |
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Nov 11, 2010
| The aretes tend to seep during winter due to the north facing aspect and heavy rainfall in the area. The cliffs are in the shade all day in the winter and temps are often in the 30's. Cecilville or Marble Caves are the best bet for winter limestone in the region. |
By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
Apr 27, 2011
| How 'bout some route info and photos of the nearby grotto? That is one of the most magical places iv'e ever been. |
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
May 13, 2011
| Yes, the Grotto is spectacular. There is one photo on the main Redwood Coast page but the area should be added.... |
By Neil Roessler
Mar 30, 2012
| I am headed up here in a few months and was wondering if there are any topos on this area? |
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Mar 31, 2012
| All of the routes are in the guidebook which is available in the gear shops in Arcata and Eureka. |
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