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Trinity Arêtes

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Trinity Arêtes  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 4,000'
Location: 40.77, -123.5033 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 33,272
Administrators: Rick Shull, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Jan 4, 2007
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Rain
67° | 44°
Rain
51° | 36°
Chance of Rain
54° | 34°
Partly Cloudy
57° | 36°
Chance of Rain
59° | 45°
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BETA PHOTO: The top of the Aretes from the campsites across th...

Description 

The Trinity Aretes are a steep, high quality limestone sport climbing area located above the Trinity River. The rock is of excellent quality with routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.14a. The cliffs are generally north facing and quite cold during the winter. Summer and Fall are the best times to climb. While some routes are only 35 feet, most are 100 feet or longer, and up to 250, so a 70 meter rope is highly recommended. Some locals use 100 meter ropes for ease of lowering on the longer lines. After following rumors of a big limestone crag, Paul Humphrey finally drove the right dirt road and found one of the highest quality limestone crags on the west coast. Since 1996 route development has been spearheaded by Eric Chemello and Humphrey and there are now over 50 routes.

Some routes do require gear so check your line before launching. A helmet is highly recommended as there is some loose rock above and around the climbs.

Getting There 

The "Aretes" are great for their easy access. From the town of Burnt Ranch on Highway 299, Take Underwood Mountain road uphill (south) for 3.5 miles. Turn right onto forest service road 5N40. Follow this road for about 2 miles and the cliffs will be on your left. Dispersed camping is found across the road and more secluded spots are nearby. Please travel well away from the camp to relieve yourself. The Aretes are currently not "trashed" please pack out all butts, bottle caps and tape. Also, please pay attention to the local fire restrictions, one careless incident could blow it for everyone.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.8 miles from here

38 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',5],['5.10',13],['5.11',10],['5.12',8],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trinity Arêtes:
Wussy Boy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk
The Shard   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 90'   Tower of Babble
Epic in a bottle   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Stoned Samurai   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Visions Wall
She Male   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Shooting Gallery : The Boardwalk
Bambi Slayer   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
El Jefe   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   Safari Wall
Goldrush   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Shooting Gallery : Upper Shooting Gallery
Karma-Kazi   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Visions Wall
420 Shadow   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   Visions Wall
Gooseberry   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Visions Wall
Visions Of Impalement   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 100'   Visions Wall
Browse More Classics in Trinity Arêtes

Featured Route For Trinity Arêtes
Christian Cota on Cro-Magnon 12d

Cro-Magnon 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Paisano Buttress
A steep route ascending some psychedelic looking drippy limestone.. steep crimps, pockets, and finishing with big moves on jugs… a sharp route that is short but packs a punch.. get on it!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Trinity Arêtes Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 2, 2014
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 24, 2007
I've heard of this area, and I'd love to check it out in the Fall.

What is the driving time from the Crescent City area? I'm coming from Portland, and I'm having a hard time figuring out if it's better to go through the Redwoods area on the coast and cut over, or to just come straight down I-5 and then go West at Redding. What would you recommend?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Jul 24, 2007
Peter-
Driving time to the Aretes is about 2.5-3 hrs from Crescent City or about 2 from Redding. I think cutting across to Crescent City is probably a little faster than coming from Redding. The other way is to drop down from Yreka to Callahan and down Rte. 3 to Weaverville and intersect Hwy. 299 there. Also, if you come down the coast, you can pick up the guide book for the Aretes in Arcata.
By Bryson Slothower
Aug 4, 2007
are the dirt roads low-clearance car friendly?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Aug 8, 2007
The roads are standard Forest Service gravel. 2wd passenger cars should be fine but I wouldn't take a lowered street racer up there.
By Bryson Slothower
Aug 11, 2007
Thanks, I'll leave my low rider at home.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 10, 2010
so it says trinity aretes is cold in winter. are we talking cold unclimable or cold dress warm and there should be almost no one else there?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Nov 11, 2010
The aretes tend to seep during winter due to the north facing aspect and heavy rainfall in the area. The cliffs are in the shade all day in the winter and temps are often in the 30's. Cecilville or Marble Caves are the best bet for winter limestone in the region.
By Frank Sosa
From: Washington
Apr 27, 2011
How 'bout some route info and photos of the nearby grotto? That is one of the most magical places iv'e ever been.
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
May 13, 2011
Yes, the Grotto is spectacular. There is one photo on the main Redwood Coast page but the area should be added....
By Neil Roessler
Mar 30, 2012
I am headed up here in a few months and was wondering if there are any topos on this area?
By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Mar 31, 2012
All of the routes are in the guidebook which is available in the gear shops in Arcata and Eureka.
By Jasna
Nov 23, 2013
Would it be too cold to visit the Aretes over Thanksgiving break? Thanks for any beta.
By Christian C
From: Arcata, CA
Mar 2, 2014
Probably a little late to be asking this, but a friend of mine got my #3 camalot stuck in the crack on visions of impalement a few months back. Came back the following weekend to try to get it out, but it was gone. i would really appreciate getting it back if anyone came across it. it had some pink paint on the stem for identification. thanks! christian