Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
TRing on rope w/ core damage
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
   Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
 
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 13, 2013
CoR

But the better question is, do people that smoke weed at the crag use core shot ropes for top roping?


FLAG
By Sdm1568
From Ca
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April

Whoa that's ^^^^^ deep!!!! I think you just posed the question the OP was actually trying to get across - I added a bit to your question.

But the better question is, do people that smoke weed at the crag use core shot ropes that they traded for top roping?


FLAG
By coldfinger
Nov 13, 2013

Not sure about smokers but pretty sure tweekers will steal and/or climb on core shot ropes.


FLAG
By Sdm1568
From Ca
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April

coldfinger wrote:
Not sure about smokers but pretty sure tweekers will steal and/or climb on core shot ropes.


A truer statement has yet to be spoken : ) haha I don't know of much that a Tweaker won't do


FLAG
By Kevin DB
Nov 14, 2013
Inverting in rocktown

You are probably fine. The core is not going to break on the inside without visible wear on the outside. Not saying to go out and take whips on it, but top roping doesn't cause that much wear. The really is no danger as long as you monitor the situation. The cost of a new rope is a lot to some people, especially when the danger is virtually none.


FLAG
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 14, 2013
CoR

Kevin DB wrote:
You are probably fine. The core is not going to break on the inside without visible wear on the outside. Not saying to go out and take whips on it, but top roping doesn't cause that much wear. The really is no danger as long as you monitor the situation. The cost of a new rope is a lot to some people, especially when the danger is virtually none.


With a little slack or an overhang/swing scenario its pretty easy to generate 1,000 pounds of force. Since you declare it OK I assume you know the strength of the sheath alone, unless of course you don't mind safety margins of zero.

Also, put a big tag on the rope that says "top rope only" so when one of your friends picks it up and start to lead that sport route they don't die.


FLAG
By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 14, 2013
OTL

How many rope "breaks" have been documented over the years? The one in the gym that they think (concluded?) was exposed to battery acid? Any others?

Ropes don't break, they get cut.


  • *Also, internet advice is worth what you paid for it.


FLAG
By bobbin
Nov 14, 2013

Cut out a piece around the damaged section, and a short undamaged section, and send them to 20 kN or someone else with a pull tester, so they can do an interesting pull test (more interesting to me than trying to break steel biners, but YMMV).


FLAG
 
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 14, 2013
CoR

Matt N wrote:
How many rope "breaks" have been documented over the years? The one in the gym that they think (concluded?) was exposed to battery acid? Any others? Ropes don't break, they get cut. **Also, internet advice is worth what you paid for it.


What the hell do engineers know. All those stupid rating numbers, fall factors, number of falls a rope is rated for, usable life, shelf life etc... No one should ever retire a rope...until it gets cut anyway.


FLAG
By michael voth
Nov 14, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.

personally, extra fuzzy spots where the texture of the core feels off warrant cutting an end off. Or retiring the rope if in the middle.

Also I probably wouldn't climb on a rope that had multiple large pendulums comparable to corona done on it period. just my 2 cents.


FLAG
By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 15, 2013
OTL

rging wrote:
What the hell do engineers know. All those stupid rating numbers, fall factors, number of falls a rope is rated for, usable life, shelf life etc... No one should ever retire a rope...until it gets cut anyway.


In practice, today’s ropes will neither break in the attachment knot, nor at the karabiner of a running belay, where the
rope is pivoted in the case of a drop, nor in the partner belay, no matter what belay method is used: the HMS knot, the
figure-of-eight, or any type of brake plate. And in the free rope length a rope will not break in any case.
These facts also hold for 10- or even 15-year-old ropes. This has been proved by many tests of such old ropes (not even 25-year-old ropes and one 30-year-old rope broke in tests in accordance with the standard; they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice, unless loaded over a sharp edge, in which case they may break)


theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Rop>>>

But hey, what do engineers know anyways?


FLAG
By coldfinger
Nov 15, 2013

Matt N wrote:
In practice, today’s ropes will neither break in the attachment knot, nor at the karabiner of a running belay, where the rope is pivoted in the case of a drop, nor in the partner belay, no matter what belay method is used: the HMS knot, the figure-of-eight, or any type of brake plate. And in the free rope length a rope will not break in any case. These facts also hold for 10- or even 15-year-old ropes. This has been proved by many tests of such old ropes (not even 25-year-old ropes and one 30-year-old rope broke in tests in accordance with the standard; they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice, unless loaded over a sharp edge, in which case they may break) theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/About_Ageing_of_Climbing_Rop>>> But hey, what do engineers know anyways?


Might be relevant, but the issue with a core shot is more often that the sheath might be prone to peeling completely, which tends to make things like belaying or using an ascender more complicated, to say the least.


FLAG
By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 15, 2013
OTL

Yeah, but the OP only wants to TR on it and never stated that the core was actually exposed.


FLAG
By Chris Schmidt
From Moab/SW CO
Nov 15, 2013

That is correct the only ways I have used this rope since noticing the damage is TR and rappelling. Also correct that the core is NOT exposed.

And 20KN mentioned that even though the two spots fail the bend test, that is most likely the sheath that is causing that and the core is still intact.


FLAG
By pjheinz83
From Southeast Pennsylvania
Nov 15, 2013
Groove Tube - Tonsai, Thailand

My general rule is that if it's bad enough that you have to question whether or not to use/do it - then you probably shouldn't. Like others have said, not worth risking your life.


FLAG
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 15, 2013
CoR

Matt N wrote:
...they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice...


That's a ringing endorsement...in practice. Also if you don't have enough money for that fancy climbing rope you would do well to suggest a K-Mart rope. I hear they are 1/10 the cost.


FLAG
 
By Chris Schmidt
From Moab/SW CO
Nov 18, 2013

so nobody else in the climbing community has used a questionable LEADING rope for TR purposes only?


FLAG
By Jesse Newton
From catskills
Nov 18, 2013
slide mtn, 4180 catskills

dude live ur life, roll the dice use a damaged rope and justify your actions on feedback ya got from mtn project forums


FLAG
By Jesse Newton
From catskills
Nov 18, 2013
slide mtn, 4180 catskills

don't be a safe bitch!! :)


FLAG
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 19, 2013
CoR

Chris Schmidt wrote:
so nobody else in the climbing community has used a questionable LEADING rope for TR purposes only?


Yes but they sure as heck didn't post Q&A on the internet to make the decision. Anyone that tells you to climb on the rope without personally looking at it and knowing the history is, well. do you really need us to spell it out. 20kn is the only one who gave you useful information here.


FLAG
By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 19, 2013
OTL

rging wrote:
That's a ringing endorsement...in practice.

VS what, in theory? I'll take in practice every time.



These guys are still alive to post about it: www.mountainproject.com/v/oldest-rope-youve-climbed-on-poll/>>> and they weren't specifying TR only.

Comes down to the OP - do you WANT to climb on it? It won't break (come back as a ghost and haunt me).
Are you scared to climb on it? Turn it into two gym ropes or a rug.


FLAG
By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 20, 2013
CoR

Matt N wrote:
VS what, in theory? I'll take in practice every time. These guys are still alive to post about it: .


I can't help but focus on the words "they still held at least one drop". Maybe we have differing opinions on meaning of one.


FLAG


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 2 of 2.  <<First   <Prev   1  2