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TRing on rope w/ core damage
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Nov 13, 2013
CoR
But the better question is, do people that smoke weed at the crag use core shot ropes for top roping? rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April
Whoa that's ^^^^^ deep!!!! I think you just posed the question the OP was actually trying to get across - I added a bit to your question.

But the better question is, do people that smoke weed at the crag use core shot ropes that they traded for top roping?
Sdm1568
From Ca
Joined Aug 7, 2012
100 points
Nov 13, 2013
Not sure about smokers but pretty sure tweekers will steal and/or climb on core shot ropes. coldfinger
Joined Oct 23, 2010
77 points
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April
coldfinger wrote:
Not sure about smokers but pretty sure tweekers will steal and/or climb on core shot ropes.


A truer statement has yet to be spoken : ) haha I don't know of much that a Tweaker won't do
Sdm1568
From Ca
Joined Aug 7, 2012
100 points
Nov 14, 2013
Inverting in rocktown
You are probably fine. The core is not going to break on the inside without visible wear on the outside. Not saying to go out and take whips on it, but top roping doesn't cause that much wear. The really is no danger as long as you monitor the situation. The cost of a new rope is a lot to some people, especially when the danger is virtually none. Kevin DB
Joined Jul 28, 2012
207 points
Nov 14, 2013
CoR
Kevin DB wrote:
You are probably fine. The core is not going to break on the inside without visible wear on the outside. Not saying to go out and take whips on it, but top roping doesn't cause that much wear. The really is no danger as long as you monitor the situation. The cost of a new rope is a lot to some people, especially when the danger is virtually none.


With a little slack or an overhang/swing scenario its pretty easy to generate 1,000 pounds of force. Since you declare it OK I assume you know the strength of the sheath alone, unless of course you don't mind safety margins of zero.

Also, put a big tag on the rope that says "top rope only" so when one of your friends picks it up and start to lead that sport route they don't die.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 14, 2013
OTL
How many rope "breaks" have been documented over the years? The one in the gym that they think (concluded?) was exposed to battery acid? Any others?

Ropes don't break, they get cut.


  • *Also, internet advice is worth what you paid for it.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
501 points
Nov 14, 2013
Cut out a piece around the damaged section, and a short undamaged section, and send them to 20 kN or someone else with a pull tester, so they can do an interesting pull test (more interesting to me than trying to break steel biners, but YMMV). bobbin
Joined Nov 16, 2009
0 points
Nov 14, 2013
CoR
Matt N wrote:
How many rope "breaks" have been documented over the years? The one in the gym that they think (concluded?) was exposed to battery acid? Any others? Ropes don't break, they get cut. **Also, internet advice is worth what you paid for it.


What the hell do engineers know. All those stupid rating numbers, fall factors, number of falls a rope is rated for, usable life, shelf life etc... No one should ever retire a rope...until it gets cut anyway.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 14, 2013
2nd pitch of Womb.
personally, extra fuzzy spots where the texture of the core feels off warrant cutting an end off. Or retiring the rope if in the middle.

Also I probably wouldn't climb on a rope that had multiple large pendulums comparable to corona done on it period. just my 2 cents.
michael voth
From Ft. Collins, CO
Joined Feb 23, 2012
58 points
Nov 15, 2013
OTL
rging wrote:
What the hell do engineers know. All those stupid rating numbers, fall factors, number of falls a rope is rated for, usable life, shelf life etc... No one should ever retire a rope...until it gets cut anyway.


In practice, today’s ropes will neither break in the attachment knot, nor at the karabiner of a running belay, where the
rope is pivoted in the case of a drop, nor in the partner belay, no matter what belay method is used: the HMS knot, the
figure-of-eight, or any type of brake plate. And in the free rope length a rope will not break in any case.
These facts also hold for 10- or even 15-year-old ropes. This has been proved by many tests of such old ropes (not even 25-year-old ropes and one 30-year-old rope broke in tests in accordance with the standard; they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice, unless loaded over a sharp edge, in which case they may break)


theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/...

But hey, what do engineers know anyways?
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
501 points
Nov 15, 2013
Matt N wrote:
In practice, today’s ropes will neither break in the attachment knot, nor at the karabiner of a running belay, where the rope is pivoted in the case of a drop, nor in the partner belay, no matter what belay method is used: the HMS knot, the figure-of-eight, or any type of brake plate. And in the free rope length a rope will not break in any case. These facts also hold for 10- or even 15-year-old ropes. This has been proved by many tests of such old ropes (not even 25-year-old ropes and one 30-year-old rope broke in tests in accordance with the standard; they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice, unless loaded over a sharp edge, in which case they may break) theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/... But hey, what do engineers know anyways?


Might be relevant, but the issue with a core shot is more often that the sheath might be prone to peeling completely, which tends to make things like belaying or using an ascender more complicated, to say the least.
coldfinger
Joined Oct 23, 2010
77 points
Nov 15, 2013
OTL
Yeah, but the OP only wants to TR on it and never stated that the core was actually exposed. Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
501 points
Nov 15, 2013
That is correct the only ways I have used this rope since noticing the damage is TR and rappelling. Also correct that the core is NOT exposed.

And 20KN mentioned that even though the two spots fail the bend test, that is most likely the sheath that is causing that and the core is still intact.
Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
Nov 15, 2013
Groove Tube - Tonsai, Thailand
My general rule is that if it's bad enough that you have to question whether or not to use/do it - then you probably shouldn't. Like others have said, not worth risking your life. PJHeinz83
From Pennsylvania
Joined Feb 19, 2013
15 points
Nov 15, 2013
CoR
Matt N wrote:
...they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice...


That's a ringing endorsement...in practice. Also if you don't have enough money for that fancy climbing rope you would do well to suggest a K-Mart rope. I hear they are 1/10 the cost.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 18, 2013
so nobody else in the climbing community has used a questionable LEADING rope for TR purposes only? Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
Nov 18, 2013
slide mtn, 4180 catskills
dude live ur life, roll the dice use a damaged rope and justify your actions on feedback ya got from mtn project forums Jesse Newton
From catskills
Joined Dec 11, 2011
146 points
Nov 18, 2013
slide mtn, 4180 catskills
don't be a safe bitch!! :) Jesse Newton
From catskills
Joined Dec 11, 2011
146 points
Nov 19, 2013
CoR
Chris Schmidt wrote:
so nobody else in the climbing community has used a questionable LEADING rope for TR purposes only?


Yes but they sure as heck didn't post Q&A on the internet to make the decision. Anyone that tells you to climb on the rope without personally looking at it and knowing the history is, well. do you really need us to spell it out. 20kn is the only one who gave you useful information here.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 19, 2013
OTL
rging wrote:
That's a ringing endorsement...in practice.

VS what, in theory? I'll take in practice every time.



These guys are still alive to post about it: mountainproject.com/v/oldest-r... and they weren't specifying TR only.

Comes down to the OP - do you WANT to climb on it? It won't break (come back as a ghost and haunt me).
Are you scared to climb on it? Turn it into two gym ropes or a rug.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
501 points
Nov 20, 2013
CoR
Matt N wrote:
VS what, in theory? I'll take in practice every time. These guys are still alive to post about it: .


I can't help but focus on the words "they still held at least one drop". Maybe we have differing opinions on meaning of one.
rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points


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