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TRing on rope w/ core damage

Original Post
Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like

I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have core damage in 2 spots.

The possible core damage is close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Chris Schmidt wrote:My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)
what do you mean "possible core shot"

a core shot means you can see the core.
Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Sad.

Fan Y · · Bishop · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 878

it's only a good idea if you think your life is worth less than $100.

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

No visible core shots, perhaps core damage would be a better term

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60
Chris Schmidt wrote:My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)
Climbing on it sounds like a great idea.
Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837
NC Rock Climber wrote: Climbing on it sounds like a great idea. --Charles Darwin
Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

$160 is a lot less than a visit to the local ER.

TR'ing on a tat rope problably will not kill you, but it isn't advisable. My first time climbing we used a 30+ old rope, and I am happy to report nothing went afoul, but I came home and ordered a new 50M Blue Water ASAP. Feeling it wasn't a good idea... the 30 year old rope... and then I got a little education reading around the internet and realized how foolish and dangerous this practice can be.

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

LOL! Glad to see someone got it.

Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100
Chris Schmidt wrote:My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)
I'd chop the core shots out and walk away with two 30 meter gym or small crag ropes if it were my rope. You might convince yourself that it's okay but climbing is stressful enough without adding that question to the mix. Plus, how are you going to explain your decision to any new people you climb with? It's teaching poor decision making to anyone who is new and will cast a shadow of doubt upon your legitimacy as a climber from those who are more experienced.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Just fix it with some tape.

no big deal.

Tyrel Fuller · · Denver, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 130
Kirk Miller · · Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA · Joined May 2003 · Points: 1,824
Guy Keesee wrote:Just fix it with some tape. no big deal.
Yes, duck tape is way strong. Or Super Glue!
But if you want to save money and make your rope last longer, just tie off the offending bits and carry on.
Hmann2 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 30

UR GONNA DIE!!

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
John Wilder wrote:do a bend test. if the rope collapses in the suspect spots, then you've got core damage.
I would say it is more likely that indicates a damaged sheath. Has there ever been a documented case where the core broke inside the rope, but the sheath was unaffected? I am not aware of any cases.

I have cut open many "damaged core" sections that failed the bend test only to find the core looked brand new. The sheath is far more rigid than the core and is responsible for more of the ropes suppleness and shape than the core is. Thus when it flops like a wet noodle over your finger, most likely it is because the sheath is so damaged it cant shape the rope anymore.

Nonetheless, if the core is visible, toss the rope, TR or not. Or at the minimal, lob off the damaged sections.
Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

That sounds pretty reasonable to me. I just find it hard to believe that it is not still strong enough to TR and rappel with.

cactusrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 10

yes.

flynn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2002 · Points: 25

"I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. "

--I might chop it into shorter pieces for use as leashes, sled dog harnesses, or stuck-car tow ropes. But climb on it? My life is worth more than that. Buy a new rope.

Jesse Newton · · catskills · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 145

buy new rope dont blow it out and take a fall

Sdm1568 · · Ca · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 80

Hopefully this isn't the one you traded? Haha

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

In Moab this is perfectly acceptable. You may want to peruse the Weed at the Crag thread next.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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