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TRing on rope w/ core damage
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Nov 12, 2013
My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like

I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have core damage in 2 spots.

The possible core damage is close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)
Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
Nov 12, 2013
me
Chris Schmidt wrote:
My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)

what do you mean "possible core shot"

a core shot means you can see the core.
5.samadhi
Joined Jul 20, 2013
27 points
Nov 12, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
Sad. Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
783 points
Nov 12, 2013
it's only a good idea if you think your life is worth less than $100. climbnplay
Joined Jun 21, 2011
23 points
Nov 12, 2013
No visible core shots, perhaps core damage would be a better term Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
Administrator
Nov 12, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Buy a new rope. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,005 points
Nov 12, 2013
tanuki
Chris Schmidt wrote:
My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)


Climbing on it sounds like a great idea.
NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
Nov 12, 2013
Mt. Agassiz
NC Rock Climber wrote:
Climbing on it sounds like a great idea. --Charles Darwin
Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Joined Dec 29, 2010
783 points
Nov 12, 2013
Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.
$160 is a lot less than a visit to the local ER.

TR'ing on a tat rope problably will not kill you, but it isn't advisable. My first time climbing we used a 30+ old rope, and I am happy to report nothing went afoul, but I came home and ordered a new 50M Blue Water ASAP. Feeling it wasn't a good idea... the 30 year old rope... and then I got a little education reading around the internet and realized how foolish and dangerous this practice can be.
Craig Childre
From Lubbock, Texas
Joined Aug 28, 2006
4,826 points
Nov 12, 2013
tanuki
LOL! Glad to see someone got it. NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
121 points
Nov 12, 2013
Chris Schmidt wrote:
My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)


I'd chop the core shots out and walk away with two 30 meter gym or small crag ropes if it were my rope. You might convince yourself that it's okay but climbing is stressful enough without adding that question to the mix. Plus, how are you going to explain your decision to any new people you climb with? It's teaching poor decision making to anyone who is new and will cast a shadow of doubt upon your legitimacy as a climber from those who are more experienced.
Bryan Hall
From Bend, Oregon
Joined Feb 16, 2008
137 points
Nov 12, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Ka...
Just fix it with some tape.

no big deal.
Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Joined Mar 1, 2008
189 points
Nov 12, 2013
Big Bend
wildernessexchangeunlimited.co... Tyrel Fuller
From Denver, CO
Joined May 9, 2010
174 points
Nov 12, 2013
Bugaboos, 1978 Photo by Ken Trout
Guy Keesee wrote:
Just fix it with some tape. no big deal.


Yes, duck tape is way strong. Or Super Glue!
But if you want to save money and make your rope last longer, just tie off the offending bits and carry on.
Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Joined May 13, 2003
1,550 points
Nov 12, 2013
do a bend test. if the rope collapses in the suspect spots, then you've got core damage. if not, then you're fine. John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,394 points
Nov 12, 2013
the fridge leavenworth
UR GONNA DIE!! Hmann2
Joined Mar 10, 2011
33 points
Nov 12, 2013
Chris Schmidt wrote:
I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea


You would be correct.
SinRopa
From parts unknown
Joined Sep 4, 2013
93 points
Administrator
Nov 12, 2013
John Wilder wrote:
do a bend test. if the rope collapses in the suspect spots, then you've got core damage.

I would say it is more likely that indicates a damaged sheath. Has there ever been a documented case where the core broke inside the rope, but the sheath was unaffected? I am not aware of any cases.

I have cut open many "damaged core" sections that failed the bend test only to find the core looked brand new. The sheath is far more rigid than the core and is responsible for more of the ropes suppleness and shape than the core is. Thus when it flops like a wet noodle over your finger, most likely it is because the sheath is so damaged it cant shape the rope anymore.

Nonetheless, if the core is visible, toss the rope, TR or not. Or at the minimal, lob off the damaged sections.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Nov 13, 2013
That sounds pretty reasonable to me. I just find it hard to believe that it is not still strong enough to TR and rappel with. Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
Nov 13, 2013
yes. cactusrat
Joined Nov 10, 2013
13 points
Nov 13, 2013
"I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. "

--I might chop it into shorter pieces for use as leashes, sled dog harnesses, or stuck-car tow ropes. But climb on it? My life is worth more than that. Buy a new rope.
flynn
Joined Feb 9, 2002
86 points
Nov 13, 2013
slide mtn, 4180 catskills
buy new rope dont blow it out and take a fall Jesse Newton
From catskills
Joined Dec 11, 2011
156 points
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April
Hopefully this isn't the one you traded? Haha Sdm1568
From Ca
Joined Aug 7, 2012
155 points
Nov 13, 2013
CoR
In Moab this is perfectly acceptable. You may want to peruse the Weed at the Crag thread next. rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Joined Jul 18, 2011
181 points
Nov 13, 2013
Sdm1568 wrote:
Hopefully this isn't the one you traded? Haha


nope that rope was a 9.5 mammut infinity used twice
this rope is a 9.8 edelweiss rocklight that was used and abused heavily
Chris Schmidt
From Grand Junction
Joined Nov 29, 2012
0 points
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April
I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, Most people that smoke weed at the crag smoke it at home too. Sdm1568
From Ca
Joined Aug 7, 2012
155 points


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