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TRing on rope w/ core damage
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By Chris Schmidt
From Moab/SW CO
Nov 12, 2013

My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like

I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have core damage in 2 spots.

The possible core damage is close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)


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By 5.samadhi
Nov 12, 2013
me

Chris Schmidt wrote:
My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)

what do you mean "possible core shot"

a core shot means you can see the core.


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Nov 12, 2013
Mt. Agassiz

Sad.


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By climbnplay
Nov 12, 2013

it's only a good idea if you think your life is worth less than $100.


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By Chris Schmidt
From Moab/SW CO
Nov 12, 2013

No visible core shots, perhaps core damage would be a better term


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By Jake Jones
From The Eastern Flatlands
Nov 12, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Buy a new rope.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Nov 12, 2013
tanuki

Chris Schmidt wrote:
My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)


Climbing on it sounds like a great idea.


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By Ryan Nevius
From The Range of Light
Nov 12, 2013
Mt. Agassiz

NC Rock Climber wrote:
Climbing on it sounds like a great idea. --Charles Darwin


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By Craig Childre
From Lubbock, Texas
Nov 12, 2013
Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.

$160 is a lot less than a visit to the local ER.

TR'ing on a tat rope problably will not kill you, but it isn't advisable. My first time climbing we used a 30+ old rope, and I am happy to report nothing went afoul, but I came home and ordered a new 50M Blue Water ASAP. Feeling it wasn't a good idea... the 30 year old rope... and then I got a little education reading around the internet and realized how foolish and dangerous this practice can be.


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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Nov 12, 2013
tanuki

LOL! Glad to see someone got it.


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By Bryan Hall
From Bend, Oregon
Nov 12, 2013

Chris Schmidt wrote:
My 70m rope has 2 very suspect spots where the sheath is very fuzzy and it feels a bit off. It also is very stiff and in spots feels flat/noodle-like I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea but I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. The possible core shots are both close to the middle mark and they came from multiple large pendulum rope swings (not Corona)


I'd chop the core shots out and walk away with two 30 meter gym or small crag ropes if it were my rope. You might convince yourself that it's okay but climbing is stressful enough without adding that question to the mix. Plus, how are you going to explain your decision to any new people you climb with? It's teaching poor decision making to anyone who is new and will cast a shadow of doubt upon your legitimacy as a climber from those who are more experienced.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Nov 12, 2013
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Just fix it with some tape.

no big deal.


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By Tyrel Fuller
From Denver, CO
Nov 12, 2013
Big Bend

www.wildernessexchangeunlimited.com/climbing/ropes/mammut-sp>>>


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By Kirk Miller
From Golden, CO
Nov 12, 2013
Bugaboos, 1978 <br />Photo by Ken Trout

Guy Keesee wrote:
Just fix it with some tape. no big deal.


Yes, duck tape is way strong. Or Super Glue!
But if you want to save money and make your rope last longer, just tie off the offending bits and carry on.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Nov 12, 2013

do a bend test. if the rope collapses in the suspect spots, then you've got core damage. if not, then you're fine.


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By Hmann2
Nov 12, 2013
the fridge leavenworth

UR GONNA DIE!!


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By SinRopa
From parts unknown
Nov 12, 2013

Chris Schmidt wrote:
I'm aware it is probably not the brightest idea


You would be correct.


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Nov 12, 2013

John Wilder wrote:
do a bend test. if the rope collapses in the suspect spots, then you've got core damage.

I would say it is more likely that indicates a damaged sheath. Has there ever been a documented case where the core broke inside the rope, but the sheath was unaffected? I am not aware of any cases.

I have cut open many "damaged core" sections that failed the bend test only to find the core looked brand new. The sheath is far more rigid than the core and is responsible for more of the ropes suppleness and shape than the core is. Thus when it flops like a wet noodle over your finger, most likely it is because the sheath is so damaged it cant shape the rope anymore.

Nonetheless, if the core is visible, toss the rope, TR or not. Or at the minimal, lob off the damaged sections.


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By Chris Schmidt
From Moab/SW CO
Nov 13, 2013

That sounds pretty reasonable to me. I just find it hard to believe that it is not still strong enough to TR and rappel with.


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By cactusrat
Nov 13, 2013

yes.


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By flynn
Nov 13, 2013

"I was wondering what people think about climbing on toprope with a rope that may have 2 core shots in it. "

--I might chop it into shorter pieces for use as leashes, sled dog harnesses, or stuck-car tow ropes. But climb on it? My life is worth more than that. Buy a new rope.


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By Jesse Newton
From catskills
Nov 13, 2013
slide mtn, 4180 catskills

buy new rope dont blow it out and take a fall


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By Sdm1568
From Ca
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April

Hopefully this isn't the one you traded? Haha


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By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Nov 13, 2013
CoR

In Moab this is perfectly acceptable. You may want to peruse the Weed at the Crag thread next.


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By Chris Schmidt
From Moab/SW CO
Nov 13, 2013

Sdm1568 wrote:
Hopefully this isn't the one you traded? Haha


nope that rope was a 9.5 mammut infinity used twice
this rope is a 9.8 edelweiss rocklight that was used and abused heavily


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By Sdm1568
From Ca
Nov 13, 2013
Mt Whitney April

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, Most people that smoke weed at the crag smoke it at home too.


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