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Trilogy Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Along Came a Strider S 
Frodo Lives S 
Gollum's Column S 
Lord of the Slings S 
My Precious T 
Nine in Black S 
Ranger Walk T 
Return of the King S 
Shadow and Flame S 
Shards of Narsil S 
Unknown name S 
Wizardly Way S 

Trilogy Buttress  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 40.2675, -111.6254 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,896
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Aug 28, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: The three faces of Tilogy Buttress. Most routes st...


Trilogy Buttress provides some of the best multipitch sport climbing in Rock Canyon. Routes extend from three to four pitches on moderate to difficult grades as you ascend over 600 feet of quality rock.

Located in the lower canyon, Trilogy calls to you to leave the top roping crowds behind and experience a bit of rock climbing adventure.

Getting There 

To get to the base of the Trilogy routes head up the main large scree slope and drainage located to the east of Super Bowl Wall on the right side of the water tower. As you look up the scree you will see that it forks about 500 feet up. The buttress rising out of the fork is Trilogy. The main routes start on the left side about another 100 feet up the left fork.


The standard way to get down from Trilogy Buttress is to walk off west. From the top, find the obvious trail that heads northwest, which then turns west at the top of the gully that lies to the west of Trilogy. Follow this west, down the west face of Squaw Mountain until reaching the Bonneville Shoreline Trail. Follow the wide path south to the Rock Canyon parking lot.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.8 miles from here

12 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trilogy Buttress:
My Precious   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   
Shards of Narsil   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   
Along Came a Strider   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Frodo Lives   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Nine in Black   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lord of the Slings   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 600'   
Shadow and Flame   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Trilogy Buttress

Featured Route For Trilogy Buttress
Perin Blanchard breathing easier after surmounting the roof on <em>Shadow and Flame</em>. Photo by John Walter.

Shadow and Flame 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Trilogy Buttress
An exciting route with stimulating exposure throughout, a roof thatíll get your heart pumping, and a rousing, slightly runout finish over a roof with broken, thought-provoking rock. The protection is good, but with the exposure and all the slack in the rope from the beginning traverse the urge to not fall is strong.Start from one of two belay locations: a single bolt if you climbed the 5.7 2nd pitch route, or a double-bolt belay if you climbed the 5.8 2nd pitch route. W...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Trilogy Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Trilogy Buttress <br />Upper Face <br />1 <a href='/v/lord-of-the-slings/105853685'>Lord of the Slings</a> P3 5.9 <br />8 <a href='/v/gollums-column/107199034'>Gollum's Column</a> 5.10c <br />9 <a href='/v/my-precious/106779775'>My Precious</a> 5.7 <br />10 <a href='/v/shards-of-narsil/108390334'>Shards of Narsil</a> 5.8 <br />11 <a href='/v/frodo-lives/106054941'>Frodo Lives</a> 5.9 <br />12 <a href='/v/shadow-and-flame/106068235'>Shadow and Flame</a> 5.10b
BETA PHOTO: Trilogy Buttress Upper Face 1 Lord of the Slings P...
Dave at the top of the second pitch of Lord of the Slings. You get a perspective of your position as you realize that Ed & Terry's and Red Slab are those little boulders far below.
Dave at the top of the second pitch of Lord of the...
Trilogy Buttress <br />Lower West Face <br />3 The Road to Rivendell 5.7 <br />4 <a href='/v/along-came-a-strider/106055960'>Along Came a Strider</a> 5.8 <br />5 <a href='/v/nine-in-black/106054965'>Nine in Black</a> 5.9 <br />6 <a href='/v/ranger-walk/106779769'>Ranger Walk</a> 5.6
BETA PHOTO: Trilogy Buttress Lower West Face 3 The Road to Riv...
Trilogy Buttress <br />Middle Face <br />1 <a href='/v/lord-of-the-slings/105853685'>Lord of the Slings</a> P2 5.8 <br />7 <a href='/v/wizardly-way/106054970'>Wizardly Way</a> 5.7 <br />
BETA PHOTO: Trilogy Buttress Middle Face 1 Lord of the Slings ...
Trilogy Buttress <br />South Buttress <br />1 <a href='/v/lord-of-the-slings/105853685'>Lord of the Slings</a> P1 5.6 <br />2 Project
BETA PHOTO: Trilogy Buttress South Buttress 1 Lord of the Slin...
The Lord of the Slings himself: Jim Knight on Trilogy Buttress
The Lord of the Slings himself: Jim Knight on Tril...
Walt as seen from the top of <em><a href='/v/gollums-column/107199034'>Gollum's Column</a></em>.
Walt as seen from the top of Gollum's Column.
Myself leading pitch 3 (we split 3 & 4) of Lord of the Slings.
Myself leading pitch 3 (we split 3 & 4) of Lord of...
Marc starting up the 4th pitch. The exposure is amazing.
Marc starting up the 4th pitch. The exposure is am...
Majority of walls on the north side near entrance of the canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Majority of walls on the north side near entrance ...

Comments on Trilogy Buttress Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 21, 2013
By raygay
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 29, 2006
I climbed this buttress with Lee on 27 Oct 06. I would not agree this formation has great rock quality on the lower section as you have to choose your holds carefully and frequently brush away the loose pebbles. The rock does get more solid and cleaner as you approach the top. The real fun is found on the highest section with lots of empty air below your feet.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 18, 2007
There is a better 1st pitch up and around to the left. Keep going up the gully to the left of the lowest prow and look for a great slab with a bolt line on it. Much better climbing and very well bolted 5.8 up the the same 2nd pitch.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Nov 3, 2007
On a November morning four of us had a stellar outing on Trilogy Buttress. We climbed each pitch in tandem on parallel routes so we went essentially as fast as a single pair of climbers, but it was quite a bit of fun for all four of us to be up there together. A highly recommended way of doing Trilogy.

Although it started as a cold morning in the shadows, as the sun rose above the ridges to the south it warmed us as we started up the pitches on the upper wall and was a glorious, beautiful day. Climbing at its finest.
By Dastruption
May 1, 2008
Just so you know, at this point in time, there is no easy/safe way to rap off. When you get to the top of the third pitch, there is only one anchor. Be ready to hike off.
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Nov 21, 2008
Okay. (I added the descent info).

If I recall correctly, the only actual rap anchors (with rings) are at the top of the two uphill first pitch routes. The anchors at the top of the Trilogy face are a single bolt and hanger for each route. Edit: Jim Knight has added a second anchor bolt and hanger for each of Lord of the Slings, Frodo Lives, and Shadow and Flame.

I'll note that some people have rapped the final face to do one or more additional routes on the face before walking off.
By Jim Knight
Nov 22, 2008
The upper pitches on Trilogy were intended to be walk-offs. Rap if you wish, just prepare to leave long slings. Midway ring anchors are found on Frodo Lives and Shards of Narsil for belay/bail options.
By Bad Sock Puppet
May 23, 2009
The last face on Trilogy Buttress makes the lower pitches worth it, no doubt about it! Used 2 sixty meter ropes to rap off the top of the highest anchors with no problems.
By Tristan Mayfield
From: Provo, UT
Sep 21, 2013
I was on Shadow and Flame today and noticed on the final (third) pitch that there were some bolts farther off to the right of the route but they're not on the beta photo. Does anyone have info on these climbs?
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Sep 21, 2013
The line of bolts farthest right is an unfinished line bolted by Jim Knight that is "not safe" until completed.