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Trifle Dicey T,TR 

Trifle Dicey 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dan McGee & Loren Trout, 1983
Page Views: 681
Submitted By: Andrew on May 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Trifle Dicey. Photo by Blitzo.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is another mediocre climb on the climber's right side of these rocks. Follow the easy, 5.6 -5.7, slanting finger crack to the nasty bolt, then head straight up the slab or to the right for a couple of 9 slab moves. After the short section of slab, itís a cakewalk for another 40 or so feet to the top. An additional 5.10 variation goes to the left of the bolt.

Protection 

Stoppers and small cams. Good tree to set up a toprope anchor up top.


Photos of Trifle Dicey Slideshow Add Photo
A close up of the climb with the bolt clipped.
BETA PHOTO: A close up of the climb with the bolt clipped.
The anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor.

Comments on Trifle Dicey Add Comment
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By Buff Johnson
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I favor this climb a little more than described (but, I can see why it would be considered a one star/mediocre/ok). For me, it offers good positive crimp moves on a wild lead and think this short slab offers good friction practice & mental prep for other splat climbs. Going way to the left of the bolt (straight up the slab from the seam) seems harder than .10, but good to work on TR (it's hard to figure what the .10b is, but I also think it's a little left of the bolt as given in the description, the .9 section is obvious).
By Matt Nelson
From: Pueblo, CO
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think this can be a fun route to lead if your in the mood to work on harder Splat friction climbing. Aim left after the crack, then go to the right edge after the tree for a full, friction experience.
By MountainManny
From: Idaho Springs
Jan 22, 2013

There are anchors and quicklinks just below the tree. If you anchor off the tree or use the gear, you will still need a 60m to lower all the way.

Anyone missing a folding pocketknife? Found just above the anchors for this climb.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The "nasty" bolt on this climb has been replaced and is no longer "nasty". The newest guidebook lists two bolts on this climb, but there is only one.
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