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Another mediocre climb on the climbers right side of these rocks. Follow the easy 5.6 -5.7 slanting finger crack to the nasty bolt then head straight up the slab or to the right for a couple of 9 slab moves. After the short section of slab itís a cakewalk for another 40 or so feet to the top. An additional 5.10 variation goes to the left of the bolt.
Stoppers and small cams. Good tree to set up a toprope anchor up top.
|By Buff Johnson|
Jul 6, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I favor this climb a little more than described (but, I can see why it would be considered a one star/mediocre/ok). For me, it offers good positive crimp moves on a wild lead and think this short slab offers good friction practice & mental prep for other splat climbs. Going way to the left of the bolt (straight up the slab from the seam) seems harder than .10, but good to work on TR (it's hard to figure what the .10b is, but I also think it's a little left of the bolt as given in the description, the .9 section is obvious).
|By Matt Nelson|
From: Divide, CO
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I think this can be a fun route to lead if your in the mood to work on harder Splat friction climbing. Aim left after the crack, then go to the right edge after the tree for a full, friction experience.
From: Idaho Springs
Jan 22, 2013
There are anchors and quicklinks just below the tree. If you anchor off the tree or use the gear, you will still need a 60m to lower all the way.
Anyone missing a folding pocketknife? Found just above the anchors for this climb.