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Trick or Treat T 

Trick or Treat 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Baker, Dennis Coffee
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Joe Lee on Mar 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Not your straight forward climb.

Description 

Deceptively steep corner with fun stemming and jamming down low. Up higher, follow a face crack. Pitch two moves left and then right and up. Limited protection and some hollow rock but easy climbing. If you don't have rope drag on pitch one, consider doing the entire route as one long pitch. Fun climb.

Location 

Starts in a steep right facing corner. Make two single rope rappels from two sets of fixed anchors. The upper anchors are to the right.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


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By jbak
Mar 19, 2007

Used.......to.......be........5.9
By Jimbo
Mar 19, 2007

Just cause it used to be rated 5.9 doesn't mean it ever was. A sandbag 20 years ago is the same as a sand bag now.
This route is, and always has been, as hard as any of the .10a's on Chimney Rock.
By jbak
Mar 20, 2007

I dunno Jim......Old Hut guide: 5.9....Steiger: 5.9....My notes from when I first did it (and 5.9 was near my limit then):"Nice. Sustained, reasonable 5.9".

Guess I'll have to do it again and see what I think now.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 17, 2008

This crag is shady in the morning and has enough routes on it now that a great day can be had before the sun makes it too hot.
By John Hayes
From: Bend, OR
Jan 6, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I've always thought that Trick or Treat is among the best single pitch trad adventure climbs in Tucson. Long with varied climbing and thoughtful moves make it a very fun climb. In my view the 5.9 rating was always a sandbag. Like John, I did it years ago when 5.9 was at my limit and it scared me to death. I agree with Jim that it is probably closer to 5.9+ or 5.10a. While the pro is excellent, you definitely want to be feeling comfortable about placing gear when you give this climb a shot.