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Tricams at Looking Glass, NC
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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Sep 24, 2012
Summit of Rainier.
I skimmed some of the recent posts and didn't see this topic, so sorry if this is a repeat. I've read that tricams work well in the rock features at Looking Glass. I know it all depends on the route and placement of the gear; but in general, would you consider tricams necessary for protection at Looking Glass, or would a Metolius Power Cam or Master Cam fit in most of the same placements?

Thanks for any info,

Mike

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By TomCaldwell
From Clemson, S.C.
Sep 24, 2012
Me on One Pitch Wonder at Whitesides.  Photo credi...
If you like to place a lot of gear and only have one rack of cams, then tri-cams are nice. They aren't mandatory except on a few 5.10 and harder routes. They set up great belays on the South Face and Sun Wall, but most of the belays at the Nose and the other walls are bolted. The Nose doesn't take that many nut placements, so I think the LG reference to tri-cams are mostly people supplementing their racks and that they fit beautifully into flared eyebrows. So in short, if you are confident at 5.8 and that is mostly what you will climb, the answer is no.

As a trad climber, they should be a staple in your rack. So it may not be a bad reason to pick up a set. Lots of people sell them here used and a new set is less than $100. That is much less expensive than two cams, they are more versatile and lighter.

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By Scott O
From California
Sep 27, 2012
Batman Pinnacle
Mike Belu wrote:
would you consider tricams necessary for protection at Looking Glass


...like condoms in a whorehouse.

OK, maybe not that necessary, but they're nice to have.

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By Steve Colegrove
From Marietta, GA
Sep 28, 2012
I agree with what TC said, if you're climbing the 5.8 or less stuff, tricams aren't necessary at all. There's plenty of eyebrows and cracks that'll take any kind of SLCD except rigid. That being said, if you ever wanted use tricams, this is as good a place as any.

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By Mike Belu
From Indianapolis, IN
Sep 28, 2012
Summit of Rainier.
Thanks for the info. I'm going there for the first time in a few weeks, so I'll be scouting out the easier routes. Good to know those routes can be protected with SLCD. I did order 3 tricams to add to my rack, just in case.
Have a good one,
Mike

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By Rick Mix
From Nederland, Colorado
Sep 28, 2012
When Tri-cams first came out they proved to be just the ticket for protecting Looking Glass 'eyebrows'. Now there's new tools (Aliens,etc.) that do the job.

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By Rhett Burroughs
From Valdosta, GA
Oct 5, 2012
....
yes. black through red

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