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Black Arches Wall
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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 1993, Jay Harrison
Season: May - Nov.
Page Views: 185
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 21, 2008
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At the junction between the left side and the main buttress of the Black Arches Wall. This corner/chimney line was the first foray onto this impressive cliff.
The climb is generally easy chimneying/crack climbing interspersed with a few tricky moves. While a worthwhile endeavor for anyone leading at this level, it was originally soloed as a way to get to the top of the cliff. Note that the chimney ends on a ledge, above which is a short section of trickier face climbing over stacked blocks. This can be circumvented by walking farther right and scrambling up 3rd class ledges to the top.


At the extreme right side of the Amphitheatre, this route follows the broken, chockstone-filled, low-angle chimney to the top of the Tripe Buttress.
The route is NOT the deep cleft under the giant roof, but the easier chimney farther out.


Standard Rack including a #3 Camalot. Much of this route can be protected by slinging chockstones.

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By Jay Harrison
Apr 23, 2012

Currently, this route is very dirty. There are a few loose blocks enroute.