Triangle 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Hans Kraus, Bonnie Prudden, Ken Prestrud 1954. FFA: Art Gran, Al DeMaria, 1960. |
| Submitted By: | Mike fenice on Aug 7, 2006 |
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Climb the detached blocks on their right side to a small right-facing roof. Move past the bulge on the right side and climb to the top. Beware: the pins are old and somewhat junky.
Location Below a left-leaning ramp, left of Never Never Land and right of Cakewalk.
Rappel from the Never Never Land anchors.
Protection Small rack since most the upper sections including the crux are protected with pins.
By Chris Hillios
From: Newburyport, MA
Oct 19, 2008
| Direct Start: Climb the center of the huge triangle flake, then join route at the top. Note: gear is limited. Dicey 5.9, but makes for a nice sustained 5.9 overall. |
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Ouch , my first fall on direct variation. It is pg-13. |
By divnamite
From: New York, NY
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 PG13
| Did the right side variation. Not sure if this is a 5.9, it's considerable easier than other 5.8s I've been on. Just make sure you move right instead of move left under the overhang. Once you get above the overhang onto the face, start traverse to the right towards Never Never Land's bolt anchor. |
By Nick Weinberg
From: Albany, NY
Apr 26, 2013
| Direct start is fun climbing, but definitely very heady lead. I think an RP helped the situation....at least psychologically. |
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 PG13
| Yeah if you do the direct variation it's 5.9 PG. I have small stuff and fiddled around for a while but it was still a little sparse. It's balancy, think Three Doves. |
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