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Climb the detached blocks on their right side to a small right-facing roof. Move past the bulge on the right side and climb to the top. Beware: the pins are old and somewhat junky.
Below a left-leaning ramp, left of Never Never Land and right of Cakewalk.
Rappel from the Never Never Land anchors.
Small rack since most the upper sections including the crux are protected with pins.
|By Chris Hillios|
From: Newburyport, MA
Oct 19, 2008
Direct Start: Climb the center of the huge triangle flake, then join route at the top. Note: gear is limited. Dicey 5.9, but makes for a nice sustained 5.9 overall.
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Ouch , my first fall on direct variation. It is pg-13.
From: New York, NY
Aug 15, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
Did the right side variation. Not sure if this is a 5.9, it's considerable easier than other 5.8s I've been on. Just make sure you move right instead of move left under the overhang. Once you get above the overhang onto the face, start traverse to the right towards Never Never Land's bolt anchor.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
Apr 26, 2013
Direct start is fun climbing, but definitely very heady lead. I think an RP helped the situation....at least psychologically.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Yeah if you do the direct variation it's 5.9 PG. I have small stuff and fiddled around for a while but it was still a little sparse. It's balancy, think Three Doves.