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Elevation: 7,003 ft
GPS: 40.56724, -111.73428
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Shared By: Josh Janes on Oct 5, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Triangle Wall, and the adjacent Geometry Wall, constitute a quiet and secluded area located high above the road. This area has historically been known as home to some ice climbing, a skimo descent, and a few wild and difficult aid climbs, but more recently it has come into its own as an excellent though sparsely documented free climbing venue. The Triangle Wall, visible through the trees from the road and looming above the main approach gully, is the impressive north-facing wall with interesting, angular roof features. The Geometry Wall is the east-facing wall that borders the gully on the right; up high it is separated from the Triangle Wall by a narrow chasm - which is home to the obscure winter climb “A Day in Scotland” (one can imagine). In midsummer the area can get a bit of sun in the middle of the day, but good shade in the morning and afternoon, along with a reliable, cool updraft, allow for comfortable climbing throughout the season.

Getting There Suggest change

Park as for Pentapitch and the Coalpit Buttress at a pullout on the right side of the road 2.4 miles up canyon from the Little Cottonwood Park & Ride. Do not block the gated service road. Follow this service road briefly, cross the creek via a pedestrian bridge, and head down-canyon along the creek on the Little Cottonwood Trail for a few minutes, keeping an eye out for a pair of huge boulders immediately next to the trail. Once you pass these boulders, continue another 20-30 paces and look for a passage through the trees that leads to a steep, narrow talus-filled gully. If you reach the turnoff for Pentapitch/Coalpit you've gone too far. The correct path funnels you into a narrow gully which can be followed all the way to the walls. Note that in early season (often into May) this gully holds snow and may require crampons and tools or poles to ascend. Approach time from the car can range from 20-40 minutes.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Triangle Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3
 12
Cocoa Puffs
Ice
WI4 M5+ Steep Snow PG13
 4
A Day in Scotland
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+
 5
Less Than or Equal To
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2-
 20
Stratosphere
Trad, Aid 5 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Broken Rhombuses
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cocoa Puffs
 12
WI3 Ice
A Day in Scotland
 4
WI4 M5+ Steep Snow PG13 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow 4 pitches
Less Than or Equal To
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Stratosphere
 20
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2- Trad, Aid 5 pitches
Broken Rhombuses
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Triangle Wall »

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