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Triangle Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Triangle Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bucket Brigade T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	EB Jeebies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stud Pile T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Talking Hands T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown (Double Lieback) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

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GPS:	40.4032, -105.5182 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	7,236 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Leo Paik on Oct 4, 2004
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 Details

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

This is a small crag about 80 foot tall lying about 400 feet SE of Gollum's Arch Rock. It has a handful of routes, at least two of which are pleasant. While certainly not a destination crag, it can be combined with routes on Twin Owls, Gollum's Arch Rock, and/or Rocks One through Six for a pleasant outing of short routing. The NW & SW faces hold the routes.

Descend the crag by scrambling down to the SE & circling back uphill to your packs.

Getting There

From the new parking lot, you can take either trail to approach this crag as it makes basically a circle with the parking area being ~6 o'clock & this crag being ~12 o'clock. Either approach is ~1 mile. If you go west from the parking lot, you will need to head northeast after ~0.6 miles. Then, follow the trail that wanders up north between Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Hen & Chickens where the trail goes off to Gollum's Arch Rock. Where the trail starts uphill on log-reinforced steps, continue contouring about 200 yards to the triangular appearing rock. Do not mistake it for a small crag with water grooves on its W face (lying immediately SE of Gollum's Arch Rock) with a mixed line with 3 bolts on its S face. If you approach from the right (north) trail, head west when you T into the Gem Lake trail junction. From the new parking lot, take the west trail towards the old Twin Owls parking lot ~0.6 miles. Expect about 20-25 minutes.

You can (less ideal) ascend worn, switchbacked social trails from below the crag perhaps 100 yards E of Upper Twin Owls/Gollum's Arch Rock.