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Trezlar is the awesome dihedral on the left hand side of the crag.
Climb the mangy lower section of the dihedral (5.7) or climb Cosmos (10a sport) for the first Pitch and traverse over from the top (much better)
Classic stemming and jamming up the impressive dihedral for 100+ feet.
Rap from the top of Pitch two with double ropes.
Left of Screaming Yellow Zonkers and Cosmos
Doubles from thin up to 3". Hexes would actually work well on this.
stemming pitch 2
Trezlar is the dihedral to the right of the climbe...
Shirley leading the 4-star upper pitch of Trezlar....
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
May 13, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
We did Cosmos to Trezlar. This is definitely the way to go, as the first pitch of Trezlar looks like crap.
After climbing Cosmos, clip the Cosmos anchor and make an easy traverse to the base of the 2nd pitch of Trezlar. You'll need to build an anchor for this belay (small gear).
Trezlar is classic, fun stemming that goes from big hands (#3 camalot size) to fingers. No move is very hard, but it is wickedly continuous for the grade.
There is a scary flake that you can't avoid about half way up the pitch. It is cracked on all four sides. I don't want to be there when that thing goes... it'll go right on your belayer :( The flake gave me the creeps and definitely lessened the quality of the pitch for me.
The top anchors are quite a bit more "climber's right" than I expected.
We rapped with 2 ropes, but a 70m rope would get you to the Cosmos anchors. And then you could rap again from there. I would do that next time.
Mar 5, 2008
"There is a scary flake that you can't avoid about half way up the pitch. It is cracked on all four sides. I don't want to be there when that thing goes... it'll go right on your belayer :( The flake gave me the creeps and definitely lessened the quality of the pitch for me."
Yup - had same thoughts.
I've led this route. My wife led this route. We're done - never going back to it.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Mar 28, 2010
Looks pretty possible to just lead it from the Cosmos anchor, if you use shoulder length or double length slings on the first few pieces.
|By Drew Peterson|
Jun 14, 2010
It's also possible to do this in one pitch- start up M.L.O's 5.7 slab, then traverse right after the second bolt into trezlar's corner. It's a bit run out, but links up nicely. Doubles In BD #1 and #2, the rest takes a standard rack. Solid line.
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 1, 2010
I led it yesterday by following Thesenga's suggestion of building an anchor and belaying at the top of the 5.7 (actually clipped three bolts on the 10c, and traversed over). It worked great in terms of leading the 10a section, but it sucked to have to build that anchor. The Trezlar crack above is deep and easy to protect, while this belay stance has a shallow, wavy crack. It's possible to build a good anchor, but takes a bit more work than is worth it. The Cosmos anchor is too far off line to belay from there.
My recommendation is to do the 5.7, maybe with one or two bolts of the 10c clipped with 48" slings, and then just head up the corner. I think this would be the most efficient way to do it. You'll probably need a 70 to make it to the anchors from the ground. Contrary to a note above, I thought the full rappel (with two 60's) from the anchor was really fun. It is a bit of work pulling the ropes, though - there's a fair amount of friction up there.
|By Toby B|
Jun 4, 2011
Is the death flake still up there?
|By Douglas Thalacker|
From: Corvallis, Or
Apr 8, 2012
Did this route this morning, excellent! Incredibly sustained for the grade.
I don't know if we are talking about the same flake, a little bigger than a hand or so, but it came off on me today. Luckily I was able to catch it and throw it off where it wouldn't land on anybody. Hope that helps.
Jun 28, 2012
No need to bring 2 ropes: a single 60m rap takes you down to the Screaming Yellow Zonkers anchor, and one more rap to the ground. Knot your ends on both raps. The SYZ anchor is down past a lip and a bit to the right, so you can't see it right away but it's no problem to get there. Just knot your ends.
Trezlar is a great route! And the first pitch is not bad, the pro is maybe a bit tricky but a 10a leader can sew it up with solid pro.
|By Jon Rhoderick|
Jun 28, 2012
If linking via planet luxury, climb to bolt 5 where the traverse is much easier. I popped a nubbin after traversing from bolt 3 and took a freaking nasty upside down slab fall, I guess the second pitch will have to wait for another day.
|By blake green|
Jul 15, 2012
The flake is still up there, and still pretty scary. It's at the first overhung/bulge section. I initially thought it was solid, but when I finger locked behind the flake and pulled down, I actually felt the jam expand (Scary!). Make sure you protect below the flake and after it, but not in it. As for the descent, a 70m should get you to the Screamin' Yellow Zonkers Anchor, and then another repel down. Just watch out when you pull the rope, as it rockets right at your face. Also, I did the route as one pitch with a 70m, clipped two bolts on the face, then traversed into the dihedral, and it worked out great with no extra belay in the middle.