|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Matt Cox & Spencer Lennard, 1974|
|Submitted By:||Randy on Jan 1, 2005|
|Comments on Trespassers Will Be Violated||Add Comment|
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By Russ Walling
Jan 13, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
This is a really good route, if, and it is a big IF, you like: traverses, runouts, and crunchy feet. The runout to the first bolt is mild eyeopener at about 30ft. The moves are easy, except for maybe two at the 20ft level, and then you get a bolt. After a few moves there is a knob you can tie off but it will probably never hold a fall. Clip another bolt and do the crux moves, and here you can clip a high bolt from the lame squeeze job that invades the route. This high bolt will save you about 3 feet off your fall should you go. Do a few moves with crunchy feet and no hands and clip another bolt. Whew! Now do a 50 foot runout to either the summit, or keep moving way up and right to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. A 70m rope will let you rap from these anchors to the ground.
Another option is when you are at the far end of the dike a two bolt anchor can be seen out to your right. It is possible to get to this anchor and belay there instead of finishing the route to the top. Also, it would be nice to have a follower who is solid at the grade, unless you carry a lot of gauze.
Feb 14, 2010
|The 2nd bolt on this route is actually in rather poor condition as of February 2010. It appears to be a slightly missdrilled and rusted button head. It's probably alright, but if it pulled during a fall it would be a messy situation indeed. Otherwise, this climb is a heads-up but fairly enjoyable endeavor.|