|Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)
A 3 pitch route on the left side of the Black Wall in Calico Basin. AM sun, PM shade. Mostly sport with some gear placements. No crowds. Rock is good with some portions still a litle friable. Bolted anchors. Tops out on the Calico Hills. Walk or rap off. P1 - follow the bolts (a couple of optional gear placements in between) to the ledge with the tree - 5.10+/.11-.
P2 - head up the Black Wall (crux down low) to a prominent right facing corner that leads to a small roof - the corner protects with gear - over the roof to the belay - 5.11-. P3 - finish the wall via bolts to the final ledge 5.9+. Enjoy.
Hike up Canyon De Heinous to the Black Wall. The route starts on the left side at the plumb line from the small pine tree on the intermediate ledge (the top of pitch 1)
|By Darren in Vegas|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 4, 2010
What a great mini-adventure this route is. The first pitch of this thing offers sustained technical face climbing (+/- 115'). The second pitch has a really cool crux sequence on a cool series of features on a nice varnished section of wall (+/- 115'). The third pitch is a short jug haul to the top (40'). In its current form I can only give it two stars, but once this thing gets some more traffic it is going to be an objective worthy of three stars out of four.
On the first pitch I fell when a foothold broke. The route is well bolted so you won't get hurt, but it still felt a bit exciting due to its fragile nature. Climb lightly on lead. If 11- is a fairly comfortable grade for you, I suggest this route.
Rack beta: I'm not 100% sure but I think we took 9 sport draws and 5 slings. We definitely took blue tcu through #1 camalot (5 units total), but you probably only need through 0.75 camalot (four units) and a set of nuts. All belays are bolted.
The pitches seemed to be about 35 meters, so you might be able to rappel with a 70meter. We did the walk off as it was getting dark and we didn't want to find out the hard way that a 70 didn't work. The walk off on the climbers right was easy to follow even in the waning light. Overall this route is a great addition by the three hombres.