Um, I suppose the real crux is, as Squeezing the Lemmon suggests, the last 10 feet of the climb. But, I found much of the climb sustained. A nice route, make sure that you are comfortable with 5.9 - 5.10 moves a body length (or more) above a bolt. At times crimpy, this well protected route is a must-do!
On the upper wall left of Rupleys; this is the first bolt line to the left of the Rupley Route. Begin on the first pitch of Fort Stress (or alternate) from a ledge.
Bolts and hangers with fixed anchors. Bolt count not available. Bring 15 slings or draws. One hanger is available for the belayer off of the ledge at the start of TF proper.
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Oct 11, 2007
A story about the name. This climb was drilled ground up on lead with no hooks. I mention this only as an explanation for the sporty spacing of the bolts. It is easier to climb than stop and drill a lot. It also saves juice in the battery. Anyway, I was about to drill the bolt that protects the move onto the lower angle ramp which is about two thirds of the way up. As I looked for a spot to drill I noticed what looked like a bolt hole so I tried to slide my blow tube into it. It turned out that is was a hole. So I pounded a bolt into it. I found two more holes above that and they were roughly where I wanted to drill again so I used them. It turns out that someone else had started drilling from the top possibly after top-roping the route and had run out of juice or something. I wonder who that might have been? Hmm. In any case I got 3 free holes, thus the name.
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 23, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just to clarify, this route is 2 pitches and approximately 160 feet. It begins a pitch or two off the ground and can be reached by climbing the first pitch or two of many routes including: Fort Stress, Gargoyle, and Mid-evil. The second pitch, which is extremely mild, is entirely devoid of bolts but can be protected by slinging chickenheads. The anchors for Fort Stress can be used to belay at the top.