Treebeard  5.7

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 460 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  unknown chipmunk Submitted By:  Leo Paik on May 9, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Topo. Alternate P3 is not drawn in.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a less-traveled, low-end difficulty route on the right side of the Bookend. Its interesting and enjoyable 2nd pitch ascends the last signficant, left-facing dihedral on the right end of the cliff. The first pitch (partially shared with Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner) can be wet for a few days after a good rain or snow. Its easterly aspect makes for a warmer warmup when west-facing or shaded south-facing aren't quite ready.

From the trail near the base of Orange Julius & Great Dihedral, scramble up and right (3rd to 4th class) up ledges and ramps to the base of the wide slot where Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner begin.

P1. Ascend the slot with the crack on the left side (when dry) or the chimney on the right (when all other options are wet) to a comfortable area with a tree with rappel slings and a rap ring. ~110', 5.6.

P2. Move up and left in a groove ~60' to a large, left-facing dihedral with a very wide crack. Using a variety of techniques, ascend this corner. Use pro on the right wall at times (wires, blue Alien), sling a chockstone, and get to a stance about 135' up. Here, the wall gets smoother and the edge of the crack rounds out. Find a short, leftward traverse (0 TCU) to move into the next crack left (can seep with water). Make a belay in this wide crack (#9, 10 hexes, #3.5 Camalot). ~160', 5.7.

P3. Here you have a few choices. You can angle right in a bushy groove (fixed #8 wire) to rejoin the left-facing dihedral or you can opt to move left into a 5.8 small, left-facing dihedral. ~70' up, you can continue up the left-facing dihedral or move out right onto easier, coarser rock. A 50m rope will not reach the summit. ~200', 5.6.

Descend/scramble off the back of the formation.

Location 

This is on the east side of the Bookend. It skirts right of Sorcerer.

Protection 

Wires, hexes #9-11 (useful), cams #0 TCU to #4 Camalot. Something huge if you're going to try to protect that wide crack directly on P2. 60m rope is preferred.