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BETA PHOTO: Topo. Alternate P3 is not drawn in.
This is a less-traveled, low-end difficulty route on the right side of the Bookend. Its interesting and enjoyable 2nd pitch ascends the last signficant, left-facing dihedral on the right end of the cliff. The first pitch (partially shared with Sorcerer
and Climb of the Ancient Mariner
) can be wet for a few days after a good rain or snow. Its easterly aspect makes for a warmer warmup when west-facing or shaded south-facing aren't quite ready.
From the trail near the base of Orange Julius & Great Dihedral, scramble up and right (3rd to 4th class) up ledges and ramps to the base of the wide slot where Sorcerer and Climb of the Ancient Mariner begin.
P1. Ascend the slot with the crack on the left side (when dry) or the chimney
on the right (when all other options are wet) to a comfortable area with a tree with rappel slings and a rap ring. ~110', 5.6.
P2. Move up and left in a groove ~60' to a large, left-facing dihedral with a very wide crack. Using a variety of techniques, ascend this corner. Use pro on the right wall at times (wires, blue Alien), sling a chockstone, and get to a stance about 135' up. Here, the wall gets smoother and the edge of the crack rounds out. Find a short, leftward traverse (0 TCU) to move into the next crack left (can seep with water). Make a belay in this wide crack (#9, 10 hexes, #3.5 Camalot). ~160', 5.7.
P3. Here you have a few choices. You can angle right in a bushy groove (fixed #8 wire) to rejoin the left-facing dihedral or you can opt to move left into a 5.8 small, left-facing dihedral. ~70' up, you can continue up the left-facing dihedral or move out right onto easier, coarser rock. A 50m rope will not reach the summit. ~200', 5.6.
Descend/scramble off the back of the formation.
This is on the east side of the Bookend. It skirts right of Sorcerer
Wires, hexes #9-11 (useful), cams #0 TCU to #4 Camalot. Something huge if you're going to try to protect that wide crack directly on P2. 60m rope is preferred.