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Indecent Exposure Buttress
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Tree Route 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 156
Submitted By: Dan Carter on Nov 1, 2012
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Tree Route
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  • Description 

    The start is slab that can be protected well about 20 feet up. Run out on easy slab to the start of the crack. Climb wide crack and chimney to ledge with chock stone for a belay anchor. The second pitch continues up chimney to finger size crack, dihedral up to a tree and big ledge. One can scramble from the tree up to the summit of north mountain on low 5th class terrain.


    Location 

    This is the obvious corner crack on the left side of the indecent exposure buttress. It is to the right of sea of holes. Start on a slab at the base of the climb.


    Protection 

    Big gear. From BD #2 up to BD #5. The five fits great before the beginning of the chimney section. Two BD #4's would have been good one can get by with one. Doubles of #2 and 3 is nice. A BD #.75 protects the open slab. Finger size stuff for the second pitch. A set of nuts would protect the crack of the second pitch.



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