Tree Route 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown, 1970s |
| Submitted By: | bob branscomb on Mar 24, 2009 |
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Close gates after passing through MORE INFO >>>
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>>
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind. The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A classic and very enjoyable crack route, hands to offwidth/squeeze chimney. Scramble up a long class four crack to an alcove at the base of the main crack system (poison ivy along here). First pitch is great hands in a corner, 5.7. Ends on a sloping ledge to the left before the overhanging entrance to the squeeze chimney. The beginning of the second pitch is the crux, wiggling into the squeeze chimney. This pitch ends on a long ledge system that is followed left and then scrambles up (class 4-5) to the summit.
Location Follows the prominent crack system that divides the south face in half. Start directly below the crack system, scramble past a large tree to the start of the stuff. Descend by Cowboy Route or the rappel route down Red Nations or the Crevasse Route rappels, if you can find the top rappel point.
Protection Nuts/cams to 4", emphasis on small to large hands. May want a couple of 4 1/2" to 5" for the second pitch. Trad route...take mostly single length runners and plenty of gear to set up belays.
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