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Lankin Dome
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Tree Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 1,207
Submitted By: bob branscomb on Mar 24, 2009

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  • Close gates after passing through MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    A classic and very enjoyable crack route, hands to offwidth/squeeze chimney. Scramble up a long class four crack to an alcove at the base of the main crack system (poison ivy along here). First pitch is great hands in a corner, 5.7. Ends on a sloping ledge to the left before the overhanging entrance to the squeeze chimney. The beginning of the second pitch is the crux, wiggling into the squeeze chimney. This pitch ends on a long ledge system that is followed left and then scrambles up (class 4-5) to the summit.


    Location 

    Follows the prominent crack system that divides the south face in half. Start directly below the crack system, scramble past a large tree to the start of the stuff. Descend by Cowboy Route or the rappel route down Red Nations or the Crevasse Route rappels, if you can find the top rappel point.


    Protection 

    Nuts/cams to 4", emphasis on small to large hands. May want a couple of 4 1/2" to 5" for the second pitch. Trad route...take mostly single length runners and plenty of gear to set up belays.



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