Climb the obvious wide crack up the front of the Central Buttress. Getting off the ground requires tricky footwork or a tree stem before getting to fun laybacking and hand jams over a bulge. Continue up the wide crack, protecting in small horizontals, to just below the tree. Bust left around the corner to a bolted anchor (runout, but easy) or climb past the tree (funky gear here) and over the top. Belay off a good tree about 30' back from the lip.
About 100' to the right of the stone staircase, this route lies just past the large rotted dead tree on the ground.
Single rack to 4".
|By Jay Shultis|
From: Blacksburg VA
Sep 7, 2011
Climb looks awesome, but it is very dirty. May just be the season and or due to the large amount of rainfall lately. We did the finish to the R of the tree which is protectable but dirty, possibly less traveled. Try it in the Fall, it will likely be better.
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Getting off the ground without stemming the tree seemed really hard. I stepped to the right, gained the good horizontal and used it to hand-traverse left to the bottom of the crack.