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Wasp, The 

Tree Crack 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Greg Lowe early 60's
Season: when condtions permit
Page Views: 953
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 21, 2007
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Tree Crack 5.11a. Ken Noyce on Lead.

Description 

This route has several cruxes: The first technical crux comes down low with awkward jams and wired body positioning. The upper crux is just a matter of endurance and being able to read it correctly. Good footwork is key as the surrounding wall is slick as piss (like the rest of Schoolroom). I wonder if Greg had fixed gear or if he placed it while leading? Either way a very impressive send for the era.


Location 

The location of this route is blatant. It's the only route with a tree at the top AND the only splitter.


Protection 

This pitch gobbles the stoppers. Bring lots of medium to large stoppers a set of TCU's and a handsized cam or 2. Slings might be nice



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By Brian Waters
From: Ogden, UT
Dec 7, 2008

I didn't place anything larger than a .75 camalot. A few larger nuts and some small cams protected it nicely. Fun route.

By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 15, 2014

Climbs like a face climb with the crack for protection.