Start in the crack directly below the tree. Follow the crack up to the tree and continue to the roof. The crack gets much larger above the tree and it may be easier to make a short belay from the tree first. When you get to the roof, the route traverses to the right until you get to some large boulders that can be down climbed on the far side of the gully. There is a crack along the traverse that makes it easily protected.
Standard rack up to #4 Friend and several more hand size pieces.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 12, 2002
This climb is a sandbag at 5.5. The first pitch is steep hands, fist, and offwidth, and is closer to 5.7 in difficulty. Doubles on the #1, #2, and #3 Camalots are handy for running the pitch past the tree and up to the roof. The belay under the roof is on a sloping ledge with limited but adequate choices for anchors. The second pitch traverse protects with medium to large cams stuffed in the horizontal crack below the roof, and is exciting 5.5 for both the leader and follower.
|By Errett Allen|
Oct 22, 2002
Did this route in one pitch no problem with a 60 meter rope. Just used some long runners where we turned the corner to traverse right. It did seem harder than 5.5 with the crux just below the tree.
|By Jake Wyatt|
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 16, 2003
I'd agree that it felt harder than 5.5. Except for the first section of the traverse, where the horizontal crack is a little flared, this climb eats up the medium and big pro.
|By Jim McGuire|
Sep 16, 2003
Definitely a bit stiff for 5.5 up to the tree, after that things mellow quite a bit but it protects well. As mentioned above, the belay is not the most comfortable and doing it in one pitch with a 60 m rope is probably the better option.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 11, 2005
On the traverse bit, especially if you're doing it in the snow, keep some bigger pieces for after the tree (bigger than #1 Camalot). If you don't know where it ends, the "descent gully is a bit snowy, you can angle up & R for a bit mo' climbin' after the traverse to a notch.