|Type:||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 160'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Bill Olszewski on Apr 16, 2009|
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Mar 23, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|I agree with the 5.9 rating for the first pitch. There are a few stiff moves there, and a typical 5.8 leader will be over his head. It helps to be tall, too. Still, a very fun, interesting lead. Go do it! Just be prepared for a bit of a challenge for 5.8.|
Mar 4, 2013
|Both my partner and I onsight most 5.9 sport climbs, and we got stuck on the slanting crack on the second pitch of this route. I would still agree with the 5.9 rating for the route, we just couldn't figure out the beta for P2! It wasn't as trivial as we thought it would be. Luckily there was no one around to laugh at us because I think we probably looked silly just sitting up there at the base of the P2 crack, staring up at this juggy 5.9 crack. A few feet above bolt 2, the climbing felt just insecure enough to be scared by the next 8-12 feet to bolt 3, especially because we were only ~20 ft off the floor of the gully you scramble up to get to the crack (possible deck fall). The climbing up to bolt 3 may have been easier as you get closer to it, we just never got far enough to find out!|
Mar 17, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First pitch seemed pretty straight forward to us with the crux at the upper part coming of the left hand flake. I would call those the only 5.8 moves.
Didn't feel the need to put any gear in as all the harder climbing was protected and "runouts" were easy climbing. Where you could put in a piece you usually are within 3 feet of a bolt so might as well go for it IMO.
Upper part of pitch 2 was a different story for us! Some committing moves with real smearing with crux before bolt #3 which is a bit far if you aren't placing gear. I did fit a #3 camalot. The whole crack was a bit more heady than the first pitch or the whole Slot machine, which if this is 5.8 (probably) would seem as 5.6
This was the meat of the whole climb for me!
Good fun with "unique" bolts and funky old anchor.