|Castle Rock - East Face
This route starts in the crack between Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend and Black Tower Crack. Follow the crack to a stance on a ledge, take the rounded, left-facing flake up and pass the crux moving from the steep start to easier pleasant climbing up the face to anchors for Easy as your Sister's Best Friend.
Stay far enough to the right that the bolts for Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend are out of reach.
I'd be surprised if this worthwhile route hadn't been done on TR at some time, but it appears in no guide, and we did it on gear.
Between Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend and Black Tower Crack.
A couple #1, #2, and maybe a #3 Camalot. Slings and smaller gear for the upper half of the route. No bolts
Looking down from the anchors at the top of Easy a...
The awesome view from the anchors shared by Trebuc...
|By Mary Moser|
Jul 23, 2011
The move past the flake seemed hard for the grade, but perhaps it's just height dependent. A bolt here would have been nice to protect a powerful sort of mantle move, but the flake does take a good piece of gear. Falling here would result in a pendulum, so bring an attentive belayer. Easy enough to top rope after leading Black Tower Crack.