Treasure Falls 

When I climbed this in 1995, it was a beautiful pitch. Near the top, there was a fantastic "window" of ice inside which we could see water cascading. Beautiful, but dangerous, we tried to avoid climbing near this window. When going past the window, when we removed our picks, water started shooting out of the holes. Beware on this climb as there is a large volume of water flowing under the ice, some years it may be possible to fall through the ice and into the waterfall underneath.

Finally got on Treasure Falls this year. It is steeper and taller than usual. The left side is getting chopped out, yet is still stiff Grade 4. Lots of big dinner plates. The right side is a series of WI5 columns. The top is also thicker than most years. No worries of kicking through. The climb only gets sunhit in the late afternoon.

This is a full 200 foot pitch to the belay, so use two 60m lines to get off. There is a nice WI5 60 foot tall pillar at the top of Treasure Falls if it is in. It is well worth the extra credit.

There usually is a fixed anchor (tat) around the large pine on climber's left. It's handier than digging for anchors on other trees. Definitely a classic. My impression is that it appears foreshortened and easier than it always turns out to be!

Definitely avoid the bubble at the top. In 2005, I kicked a sizeable chunk out of it. One good pick placement kept me from going in.

Talked about climbing it for years, happened to be on a ski trip last weekend and got it, powder all day and also topped out on Treasure in the afternoon. Bigger than it looks, my measurements say 180' from the first swing to the rap tree. The tree had a single 6mm cordelette and 1 aluminum ring, wish we had something to make it better. We rapped without issue, but FYI it needs another ring and cordelette.

We didn't think the route was difficult, but the screws were questionable on the steep section, maybe too much sun? Nearly every screw made it to the running water