Shirley following pitch 7 of Comici on the north f...
Description
Some of the most classic and famous climbs are found on the Tre Cime (Drei Zinnen). The Mega-Classics include the Preuss-Riss on Cima Piccolissima, (Preuss,1911), The Gelbe Kante on Cima Piccola(Comici), The Comici and the Hasse-Brandler(Hasse,Brandler,Löw,Siegrist 1958) on the North-Face of Cima Grande, the Cassin and the Schweizerweg(Weber,Schelbert 1959) on Cima Ovest. The Comici is arguably the most famous climb in the dolomites. The routes are crowded all summer during good weather. The rock quality is basically poor but good on the classics, because the loose holds disappear. Mostly crimps. Get an early start to avoid crowds on the Comici. The North-Face of Cima Ovest is home to two of the hardest routes in the Alps, namely Panaroma (14b) and Bellavista (14b) which both follow incredbly steep and spectacular lines. These amazing routes were first ascended and free climbed by Alexander Huber. There are also some nice boltprotected climbs by C. Hainz.(phantom der Zinne(13a), Oetzi trifft Yeti(12b)...)Take some gear. Better wait for warmer weather with no thunderstorms, for ideal conditions. If it's too cold for the North Faces you can climb the Yellow edge or Oetzi trifft Yeti(noon-evening sun) on Cima Piccola)
Getting There
From Cortina drive to Misurina and then to Rifugio Auronzo. Obvious approach from the parking lot at the hut. Go around left for Cima Ovest and right for the rest.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tre Cime di Lavaredo:
Description general: This is a stunning line up the left arete of Cima Piccola South face. It is very popular so you will certainly be sharing the route and the belays with others. The first pitch is a slick as glass from all the many ascents. If you feel you are off route just look for well worn rock.Pitch description:Pitch 1 20 m V: Start just left of the arete at a steep dihedral starting near a horizontal ledge. The corner is very polished. Climb this short corner carefully to a stance ...[more]Browse More Classics in International