This is a pretty popular problem that traverses the Galley Boulder. It can go from left to right or right to left. It is about the same rating each way depending on what your strength and weaknesses are. The only rule on this one is you can't use the lip while traversing. It has a mixture of good holds and bad underclings with nasty feet.
|By Darryl Roth|
Nov 2, 2010
I'm almost sure that this is a Ric Geiman FA.
Sep 12, 2011
A couple years ago I started right, traversed to the arete on the left, then returned to the right. That's probably about V10 and 30+ moves with no real rest (except maybe along the sloping undercling rail).
|By Patrick Manitou|
From: Atlanta, GAAAAA
Mar 5, 2012
So the lip is off, but what about the pocket that's fairly good, and within a couple inches from the lip, mid-way through the traverse? It's used for the V1 Galley Center problem. I felt a little shaddy using it, but to my eye, it was not part of the lip.
Either way, I enjoyed this problem a lot more than I thought I would. Put it together in an afternoon (using the pocket), and it's probably my favorite thing at Ute now, minus the soot.
Mar 7, 2012
I found some old video and I used the lower pocket near the lip but not the pocket right at the lip. I also stayed low at the end using the sandy pinches instead of the holds at the lip and finished by climbing around the corner and up. The start is in the two pockets if you're going right.