|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters|
|Submitted By:||Denis O'Connor on Jul 16, 2009|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Traverse of the Clods||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Apr 23, 2013
|Great photos. Can't wait to get on this.|
From: Germantown, MD
Aug 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
|Fun and airy. Best to avoid the hanging belay and do it in one pitch. Rope drag with a single 60m wasn't an issue if you sling out your pro.|
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 5, 2015
|Great route. Very nice as one pitch but communication with the second will be tricky and there is some decent spacing between gear at times, so I would want to make sure they are solid. Even if you don't want to do the final pitch, the first pitch is great and you can easily finish on the 5.6 variation.|
Aug 23, 2015
The beta for this great route is excellent and Tricia's pics are outstanding...BUT... you need to read everything including the picture captions and look at the pics carefully (unless you're a bad-ass).
Study this Key Picture.
IMHO the optional belay is primarily for moral support. I had no trouble skipping it. You may also prefer not to have your second watch as you vacillate and tremble.
3 of the 4 climbers I watched traversed too low at the end of P2 and got stuck. The move to get up onto the traverse ledge is pretty tricky and most sane people will try to avoid it, but that's the way you need to go.
Very small cams (00 & 000 C3s) or BallNutz are all that will fit at the end of the final traverse. They may not hold much but you'll feel safer.