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Traverse of the Clods T 
Unholy Wick T 
Updraft T 

Traverse of the Clods 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Paul Potters
Page Views: 2,516
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Jul 16, 2009

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Eve exiting on the 5.6 variation. The crux 5.9 se...

Description 

Traverse of the Clods is among the most interesting and unusual routes in the Gunks. It’s thoughtful, balancy, exposed, not too strenuous, not R-rated—yet seldom climbed.

TOTC begins on the GT ledge, on a 15’ terrace to the left of where the first pitch of Andrew meets the GT ledge. The final pitch of Hans' Puss starts from this same terrace.

The pitch begins a few feet right of a large right-facing corner and goes mostly up, with some trending to the right, for about 35’ to a small overhang with an old pin above and to the left of it. This section is 5.7 or so and is slightly run-out.

Next, head right past an overhang, then continue to move right and slightly upward for a few feet until you can traverse straight to the right for about 35’. A hanging belay can be built at the end of that traverse, at the intersection of a flake and a vertical crack/corner. If you find yourself under a roof with a sling anchor, you’ve gone too far.

The second pitch goes straight up to a good horizontal a few feet above. If you continue up from there, you will be doing the final, short 5.6 pitch of Twilight Zone.

To continue on TOTC, head directly right with your hands on the horizontal. Your feet will be on a good ledge that will narrow as you continue moving right. When the ledge disappears, you are at the crux.

After that difficulty is resolved, the route finishes around the corner, up a crack through a final overhang with a two-inch gap in it, which is visible from the carriage road.



Location 

On the GT Ledge, on a 15' high terrace to the left of Andrew.


Protection 

Standard rack, with one extra small cam.



Photos of Traverse of the Clods Slideshow Add Photo
In the crux.  Photo by Tricia.
In the crux. Photo by Tricia.
Nic Fries setting up the hanging belay at the end of pitch 1, taken from the starting terrace.
Nic Fries setting up the hanging belay at the end ...
Looking over at Twilight Zone from the belay.  The crux of TOTC is above this roof.  I once tried to hand-traverse the roof as an alternative to walking on the narrow ledge above, but it got desperate pretty quickly.
Looking over at Twilight Zone from the belay. The...
Mark Mooradian following the first pitch. Photo by Tricia.
Mark Mooradian following the first pitch. Photo by...
Another view of the P1 traverse, from the hanging belay.
Another view of the P1 traverse, from the hanging ...
Mark following P2. Photo by Tricia.
Mark following P2. Photo by Tricia.
One move above where I described the hanging belay (although it doesn't have to be there, and she obviously didn't belay there).  The route finishes directly to her right.
One move above where I described the hanging belay...
Looking down from the top, through the two-inch crack at the finish.
Looking down from the top, through the two-inch cr...
A nice spot for a nap on an October afternoon in the Gunks.
A nice spot for a nap on an October afternoon in t...
Tricia following the P-1 traverse, with the Andrew corner below.
Tricia following the P-1 traverse, with the Andrew...
Looking up toward the crux from the belay.
Looking up toward the crux from the belay.
Comments on Traverse of the Clods Add Comment
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By rogerbenton
Apr 23, 2013

Great photos. Can't wait to get on this.