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Traveler Buttress 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick long, Al Steck, 1965
Page Views: 13,897
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Apr 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (124)
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Unknown climbers on the wild and exposed third pit...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crux of this route is the notorious offwidth second pitch. It can be well protected with a #4 Camalot placed deep in the crack. Most parties prefer two #4s though I have led it safely with one #3.

The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge.

The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap.

The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece.

The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.


Location 

Start on the Tombstone ledge and follow a serrated crack just to the right of Boot hill. Or you can skip the first pitch (not recommended) and start at the offwidth second pitch just around the corner from Corrugation Corner. If you skip the first pitch, sorry, "you have not climbed Travelers Buttress" only part of it.


Protection 

Cams, .5" - 4"; Nuts, 1 set.



Photos of Traveler Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
A climber on P3 of Traveler Buttress. Afternoon in October. View from Central Wall.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
A climber on P3 of Traveler Buttress. Afternoon in...
Traveler Buttress profile. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Traveler Buttress profile.
Photo by Blitzo.
Unknown climber clearing the classic arete on the third pitch.
Unknown climber clearing the classic arete on the ...
The awesome "Airy traverse" on pitch 3
The awesome "Airy traverse" on pitch 3
Traveler's Buttress P1, harder than it looks.
BETA PHOTO: Traveler's Buttress P1, harder than it looks.
Traveler Buttress climbs the cracks at the center of the photo, left of the arÍte. Corrugation Corner is the huge right facing corner.
Traveler Buttress climbs the cracks at the center ...
Top of offwidth. You can stem the two cracks as soon as you get spit out of the offwidth.
BETA PHOTO: Top of offwidth. You can stem the two cracks as so...
looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch
looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch
Scotts ass in the notorious offwidth pitch of Travelers. He soon regreated taking all that gear.
Scotts ass in the notorious offwidth pitch of Trav...
leading up to the arete on the 3rd pitch
leading up to the arete on the 3rd pitch
Low on the first pitch.
Low on the first pitch.
leading the crux pitch
leading the crux pitch
Another beautiful offwidth.
Another beautiful offwidth.
First pitch of Traveler Buttress.
First pitch of Traveler Buttress.
Offwidthy goodness :) <br />Half way up I was able to jam to put in gear by expanding my chest out. That held my body in there solid.
BETA PHOTO: Offwidthy goodness :)
Half way up I was able to ja...
The second pitch offwidth of Traveler Buttress.
The second pitch offwidth of Traveler Buttress.
The arete. There is a fixed pin just up and right, then go left around the corner.
BETA PHOTO: The arete. There is a fixed pin just up and right,...
The great third pitch of Traveler Buttress.
The great third pitch of Traveler Buttress.
Comments on Traveler Buttress Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2014
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 29, 2007

I think the first pitch (below main ledge) is a sandbag at 5.8. More like 5.9...+?

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 15, 2009

A great route with some very classic climbing. Not sure if it warrants the "fifty classics" title but it is got some great rock and moves.

As caughtinside stated I felt that the upper moves on the 1st pitch were the most insecure of the route but the OW will be the crux for most people. It is just a few moves of thrutching and then turns into a spectacularly fun handcrack.

By scalparm
From: Vienna, Austria
Aug 2, 2009

I totally agree with both comments. The first pitch crux is easily 5.9. The 2nd pitch OW is brutal! Though there is some pro to be found and it's over quickly enough once you commit to it. I'd have to climb the other so-called 50 classics to determine if it's worthy of the title. Good climb though.

By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Dec 14, 2009

If you're second is adverse to (or just really bad at) offwidth, the follower on the party in front of us was able to stem up using the thin crack to the left with his left hand and the edge of the o/w with his right. If you're leading, the o/w is just, well, o/w. The worst part about it is that it's greasy as all get out but it is just 5.9, and not very hard 5.9 at that.

Certainly not 50 Classics material but you have to do it if you're in the area.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 12, 2010

I have composed the Traveler Buttress rap song (to be sung to Ludacris' "My Chick Bad"):

My crack hard
My crack slick
My crack spit you out like you really wish it di'int

My crack hard, harder harder than yers
My crack do stuff that I can't even put in words
Its polish don't stop
Its scuffle don't quit
So, fool, pipe down - you ain't talkin' bout sh*t

My crack hard, tell me if you seen her
She always bring the brutal like Venus and Serena
All white rock, all wide route
and all wide jams, crack lookin' like stout
No time for games, she's full grown
My crack hard, tell your crack to go home

By coreylee
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 20, 2011

Fun route, got me psyched on the leap. Question, pitch three, if you follow the seam up to the right, as opposed to the arete on the letft, how hard. We did this today but it felt hard. Rad little seam none the less!

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This was a really fun route. I chose the 5.10 finger crack variation on P2 and thought it was very hard for 10b (I think that's what someone told us it was). We also did it in four pitches... two long ones after the crux pitch.

By Patrick M.
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 23, 2012

Just did this fantastic climb yesterday. Even the last two "ladder" pitches are a lot of fun.

With regards to the crux, I did it protecting in the thin crack. However I guess I was pretty exposed. The OW is very positive as long as you are confident with that technique. As soon as you move up, you will find some positive hand holds. In any case, it is a committing move.

By mac345
From: Reno, Nv
May 25, 2013

yes heed wylies' warning there is a pissed raptor out there who doesn't like the human intervention on its territory. It came at me after turning the arete(pitch 3) and making the traverse to the pancakeie flake thing, which was an awesome move by the way, anyways scared the piss out of me. you can here it coming though so be wary, and like many routes at the leap a good set of nuts is very useful. O and the offwidth sucks for about 10 to 15 feet and then becomes more "enjoyable" all and all a very sweet route.

By SRG
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I would agree that the top of pitch 1, the wide flaring and bulging crack, felt like 5.9. Really awkward moves. For me it was easier to lead the OW. The OW is solid 5.9, not any easier but not any harder. I put in one #4 at the start, a #5 in the middle and another #4 at the top. This protected it well. On the third pitch I didn't stop to belay at the two pins around the corner. I did see them but continued up about another 60 feet to a nice horizontal crack to belay off of. Solid anchor off of #1 and #0.75 cams. The crux arete move on pitch 3 felt like easy 5.8 to me. The exposure is awesome!

By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Aug 3, 2014

I hate to say it, but I don't think this route is all that great by today's standards. In an area with lots of super-classic moderate routes, I don't think Traveler Buttress makes the top 10. The only fantastic climbing on the route is the 60 foot hand crack after the offwidth on P2. The rest is either a jug haul, awkward (top of P1), or heinous (the offwidth). The upper part of the route has nice exposure but the climbing itself isn't interesting.

I guess you have to do this route once since it's a 50 Classic but I don't see myself doing it again. For a 5.9 climber, a route like Scimitar is far more satisfying.

By the way, my partner seconded the offwidth by stemming between the thin crack on the left and the wide crack and said it felt about 5.8.