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Scotts ass in the notorious offwidth pitch of Trav...
The crux of this route is the notorious offwidth second pitch. It can be well protected with a #4 Camalot placed deep in the crack. Most parties prefer two #4s though I have led it safely with one #3.
The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge.
The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap.
The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece.
The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.
Start on the Tombstone ledge and follow a serrated crack just to the right of Boot hill. Or you can skip the first pitch (not recommended) and start at the offwidth second pitch just around the corner from Corrugation Corner. If you skip the first pitch, sorry, "you have not climbed Travelers Buttress" only part of it.
Cams, .5" - 4"; Nuts, 1 set.
Traveler Buttress profile.
Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Traveler's Buttress P1, harder than it looks.
Traveler Buttress climbs the cracks at the center ...
looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch
leading up to the arete on the 3rd pitch
leading the crux pitch
First pitch of Traveler Buttress.
The second pitch offwidth of Traveler Buttress.
The great third pitch of Traveler Buttress.
The awesome "Airy traverse" on pitch 3
Low on the first pitch.
Unknown climbers on the wild and exposed third pit...
Another beautiful offwidth.
Unknown climber clearing the classic arete on the ...
|Comments on Traveler Buttress
From: Hell, MI
May 13, 2013
Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would avoid the rest of the route unless you like climbing runout dikes while a predatory raptor tries to ravage your eyes.
From: Oakland CA
May 29, 2007
I think the first pitch (below main ledge) is a sandbag at 5.8. More like 5.9...+?
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 15, 2009
A great route with some very classic climbing. Not sure if it warrants the "fifty classics" title but it is got some great rock and moves.
As caughtinside stated I felt that the upper moves on the 1st pitch were the most insecure of the route but the OW will be the crux for most people. It is just a few moves of thrutching and then turns into a spectacularly fun handcrack.
Aug 2, 2009
I totally agree with both comments. The first pitch crux is easily 5.9. The 2nd pitch OW is brutal! Though there is some pro to be found and it's over quickly enough once you commit to it. I'd have to climb the other so-called 50 classics to determine if it's worthy of the title. Good climb though.
|By Fat Dad|
From: Los Angeles, CA
Dec 14, 2009
If you're second is adverse to (or just really bad at) offwidth, the follower on the party in front of us was able to stem up using the thin crack to the left with his left hand and the edge of the o/w with his right. If you're leading, the o/w is just, well, o/w. The worst part about it is that it's greasy as all get out but it is just 5.9, and not very hard 5.9 at that.
Certainly not 50 Classics material but you have to do it if you're in the area.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 12, 2010
I have composed the Traveler Buttress rap song (to be sung to Ludacris' "My Chick Bad"):
My crack hard
My crack slick
My crack spit you out like you really wish it di'int.
My crack hard, harder harder than yers
My crack do stuff that I can't even put in words.
Its polish don't stop
Its scuffle don't quit
So, fool, pipe down - you ain't talkin' bout sh*t
My crack hard, tell me if you seen her
She always bring the brutal like Venus and Serena
All white rock, all wide route
and all wide jams, crack lookin like stout.
No time for games, she's full grown
My crack hard, tell your crack to go home!"
From: Berkeley, CA
Aug 20, 2011
Fun route, got me psyched on the leap. Question, pitch three, if you follow the seam up to the right, as opposed to the arete on the letft, how hard. We did this today but it felt hard. Rad little seam none the less!
|By Ryan Williams|
From: London (sort of)
Oct 13, 2011
This was a really fun route. I chose the 5.10 finger crack variation on P2 and thought it was very hard for 10b (I think that's what someone told us it was). We also did it in four pitches... two long ones after the crux pitch.
|By Patrick M.|
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 23, 2012
Just did this fantastic climb yesterday. Even the last two "ladder" pitches are a lot of fun.
With regards to the crux, I did it protecting in the thin crack. However I guess I was pretty exposed. The OW is very positive as long as you are confident with that technique. As soon as you move up, you will find some positive hand holds. In any case, it is a committing move.