Traveler Buttress 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 500 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Dick long, Al Steck, 1965 |
| Submitted By: | Salamanizer on Apr 4, 2006 |
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Scotts ass in the notorious offwidth pitch of Trav...
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The crux of this route is the notorious offwidth second pitch. It can be well protected with a #4 Camalot placed deep in the crack. Most parties prefer two #4s though I have led it safely with one #3. The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge. The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap. The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece. The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.
Location Start on the Tombstone ledge and follow a serrated crack just to the right of Boot hill. Or you can skip the first pitch (not recommended) and start at the offwidth second pitch just around the corner from Corrugation Corner. If you skip the first pitch, sorry, "you have not climbed Travelers Buttress" only part of it.
Protection Cams, .5" - 4"; Nuts, 1 set.
Traveler Buttress profile. Photo by Blitzo.
| BETA PHOTO: Traveler's Buttress P1, harder than it looks.
| Traveler Buttress climbs the cracks at the center ...
| looking down from the top of the 3rd pitch
| leading up to the arete on the 3rd pitch
| leading the crux pitch
| First pitch of Traveler Buttress.
| The second pitch offwidth of Traveler Buttress.
| The great third pitch of Traveler Buttress.
| The awesome "Airy traverse" on pitch 3
| Low on the first pitch.
| Unknown climbers on the wild and exposed third pit...
| Another beautiful offwidth.
| Unknown climber clearing the classic arete on the ...
| BETA PHOTO: Offwidthy goodness :) Half way up I was able to ja...
| BETA PHOTO: Top of offwidth. You can stem the two cracks as so...
| BETA PHOTO: The arete. There is a fixed pin just up and right,...
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| Comments on Traveler Buttress |
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By Wylie From: Hell, MI May 13, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | Beware! My buddy and I were attacked by a Peregrine Falcon while climbing Traveler's Buttress 2 days ago. It started when I turned the corner of the 5.8 arete pitch and continued until we were near the top. The route isn't listed anywhere as part of the spring closure. The bird was very pissed and extremely aggressive bombing in at our heads with it's talons out. It was not a fun experience. You could climb up to the top of the OW crux pitch and rap off the bolts no problem, but I would avoid the rest of the route unless you like climbing runout dikes while a predatory raptor tries to ravage your eyes. |
By caughtinside From: Oakland CA May 29, 2007
| I think the first pitch (below main ledge) is a sandbag at 5.8. More like 5.9...+? |
By Karsten From: Sacramento, CA Jun 15, 2009
| A great route with some very classic climbing. Not sure if it warrants the "fifty classics" title but it is got some great rock and moves. As caughtinside stated I felt that the upper moves on the 1st pitch were the most insecure of the route but the OW will be the crux for most people. It is just a few moves of thrutching and then turns into a spectacularly fun handcrack. |
By scalparm Aug 2, 2009
| I totally agree with both comments. The first pitch crux is easily 5.9. The 2nd pitch OW is brutal! Though there is some pro to be found and it's over quickly enough once you commit to it. I'd have to climb the other so-called 50 classics to determine if it's worthy of the title. Good climb though. |
By Fat Dad From: Los Angeles, CA Dec 14, 2009
| If you're second is adverse to (or just really bad at) offwidth, the follower on the party in front of us was able to stem up using the thin crack to the left with his left hand and the edge of the o/w with his right. If you're leading, the o/w is just, well, o/w. The worst part about it is that it's greasy as all get out but it is just 5.9, and not very hard 5.9 at that. Certainly not 50 Classics material but you have to do it if you're in the area. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 12, 2010
| I have composed the Traveler Buttress rap song (to be sung to Ludacris' "My Chick Bad"): My crack hard My crack slick My crack spit you out like you really wish it di'int My crack hard, harder harder than yers My crack do stuff that I can't even put in words Its polish don't stop Its scuffle don't quit So, fool, pipe down - you ain't talkin' bout sh*t My crack hard, tell me if you seen her She always bring the brutal like Venus and Serena All white rock, all wide route and all wide jams, crack lookin' like stout No time for games, she's full grown My crack hard, tell your crack to go home |
By coreylee From: Berkeley, CA Aug 20, 2011
| Fun route, got me psyched on the leap. Question, pitch three, if you follow the seam up to the right, as opposed to the arete on the letft, how hard. We did this today but it felt hard. Rad little seam none the less! |
By Ryan Williams Administrator From: London (sort of) Oct 13, 2011 rating: 5.9
| This was a really fun route. I chose the 5.10 finger crack variation on P2 and thought it was very hard for 10b (I think that's what someone told us it was). We also did it in four pitches... two long ones after the crux pitch. |
By Patrick M. From: San Francisco, CA Apr 23, 2012
| Just did this fantastic climb yesterday. Even the last two "ladder" pitches are a lot of fun. With regards to the crux, I did it protecting in the thin crack. However I guess I was pretty exposed. The OW is very positive as long as you are confident with that technique. As soon as you move up, you will find some positive hand holds. In any case, it is a committing move. |
By mac345 From: Reno, Nv May 25, 2013
| yes heed wylies' warning there is a pissed raptor out there who doesn't like the human intervention on its territory. It came at me after turning the arete(pitch 3) and making the traverse to the pancakeie flake thing, which was an awesome move by the way, anyways scared the piss out of me. you can here it coming though so be wary, and like many routes at the leap a good set of nuts is very useful. O and the offwidth sucks for about 10 to 15 feet and then becomes more "enjoyable" all and all a very sweet route. |
By Some Random Guy From: San Francisco, CA Jun 11, 2013 rating: 5.9
| I would agree that the top of pitch 1, the wide flaring and bulging crack, felt like 5.9. Really awkward moves. For me it was easier to lead the OW. The OW is solid 5.9, not any easier but not any harder. I put in one #4 at the start, a #5 in the middle and another #4 at the top. This protected it well. On the third pitch I didn't stop to belay at the two pins around the corner. I did see them but continued up about another 60 feet to a nice horizontal crack to belay off of. Solid anchor off of #1 and #0.75 cams. The crux arete move on pitch 3 felt like easy 5.8 to me. The exposure is awesome! |
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