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Climb up to the base of the corner on an easy but unprotected ramp. Work your way up the corner to the bottom of the roof, take care to place good pro in the crack (hand to finger size). Traverse out left on good underclings and exit the roof to a nice mantel. Face climb to the top, a bit runout but it's on easier ground.
The left facing corner to the right of Wet Kiss
Cams from 0.4" to 3", one set of nuts
3 bolt anchor at the top
Apr 27, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
This route is heads-up, even though the climbing felt easier than 5.9 to me. If you are getting into trad leading, skip this one for now. Getting to the first bolt requires a substantial runout on rock that's very loose in places. After that bolt (which is off to the right - clip it with a long sling), it's you and the crack, which although perfectly climbable and made easier by good stemming opportunities, does not inspire confidence in terms of protection. It's wavy, and cam opportunities are not as good as Jorgie's crack, for example. Nuts go in well, but good luck trusting them - the lip is thin in places. Remember that this is not granite, sew it up, and DON'T FALL. After the traverse out left, you have a long runout to the top again on easier and chossier terrain again. If you mess up, you are relying on your traverse cams waaay down there, and hoping they will hold. You would also pendulum. In my view this route is R-rated, it not worse. Climb it if you want to prove to yourself that you can sack up on easy but scary terrain. If you're clever, I recommend climbing something bolted and saving your gear for granite. Or at the very least Jorgie's crack next door, which felt more strenuous but also less sketchy.