me chucking the dyno on gill egg v5
The Trapps, in addition to boasting more than 500 trad routes (detailed here)
, are home to more than 250 documented boulder problems varying in difficulty from V0 to V13 which scale and traverse the hard quartz conglomerate of the area. The only published bouldering guide for the area is Greene and Russoís Bouldering in the Shawangunks. A complete list of all posted problems sorted by quality can be found here.
There are several different areas each containing interesting problems along the Undercliff road. From South to North, as you walk up the carriage way from the Trapps bride towards Skytop you pass the Steel Bridge Area (Steel Bridge boulders
, Terrace boulders), Keyhole
, Uberfall Area (Doug's Roof
, Uberfall problems
, Suzie A boulders
), Early Trapps areas (Pebbles
, Kama Sutra
, Stairway Boulders), 50 yard line, End of the Trapps areas (Andrew
, Corridor, Boxcar
) and Sleepy Hollow boulders. There is one area not accessed from the carriage road, the Wawarsing Parking Lot Boulders
, which are located near the Wawarsing parking lot down the East Trapps Connector Trail (AKA The Stairmaster) from the carriage road.
Bouldering in the Shawangunks, Second Edition, Ivan A Greene and Marc E Russo, Jefe Publication, 2003.
A Temporary Note
Hey everyone, Iím much more of a trad climber than a boulderer, but Iím going to be spending lots of time bouldering in the area--in between diaper changes-- and thought that it would be a good opportunity to start the ball rolling on listing problems on Mountain Project. Iíll attempt to get most of the areas and sub areas up as I have an opportunity to climb them but Iíll only post problems that Iíve completed which means that initially there is going to be a lot of easy stuff. This is an open invitation to anybody and everybody to help me construct and flesh out this area. Iím going to try to stick to the organization that is used in Boulding in the Shawangunks to make it as useful a supplement as possible. Please feel free to PM me or call me out in forums with criticism and corrections. I have no FA information other than what can be implied from the problem names. Iíd love to correctly list all of this, so please let me know if you have it. Thanks for you patience.
A Note About Grades
While grades are certainly not the most important thing about climbing, they are an important part of having a worthwhile guidebook. It's my feeling that the printed grades in Bouldering in the Shawangunks are all over the place. It would be great if everyone who ticks a problem took the time to put in an estimate of grade and quality as well. Even if you agree with the current grade, please put in your two cents, and hopefully we can arrive at a more accurate consensus.
Weather station 3.1 miles from here
108 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',36],['2 Stars',49],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Trapps Bouldering:
Featured Route For Trapps Bouldering
Nameless Traverse II V2 5+ NY
: The Gunks
: ... : Nameless Area
Start with your hands in the horizontal under the roof. Work up and right through several layers of horizontals. Instead of going up via the right facing flake, continue right to gain a crack. Climb up the crack to finish right. Don't forget to enjoy the altitude before topping out....[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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