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The guidebook says this one is not worth the effort due to hideous rope drag. I guess I can't disagree with that accessment. There are a number of pitons placement side by side, and a number of horizontal traverses throughout the route. I did find a challenge of reaching the anchor without grinding to a halt due to rope drag. This is the final exam for rope management. You will receive a passing grade, if you make it to the anchor without profanity.
The first drill piton is up the rib and just to the right of the top of the cave, about 40-50ft up. (5.6R/X) Continue to the left clipping two side by side pitons with long slings. Make sure you back clean the first clip, or suffer. Continue back and forth up the wall with back cleaning or skipping clips to reduce drag. At the last pin, angle to the left about 20ft to a rap anchor at 150ft. You can rap and clean, but it is best to have someone follow the route.
The first route to the right of Roar of the Greasepaint, and just to the right of the cave.
A bunch of 2 ft slings
|By L. Hamilton|
Mar 22, 2009
"The guidebook says this one is not worth the effort due to hideous rope drag."
There's no significant rope drag if you use double ropes.